Formula · 7.9

Brand · 7.7

Anua · toner, 77% heartleaf water · South Korea

Anua Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner

Anua Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner
7.9

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.5No proven effect when applied: heartleaf (houttuynia cordata)
  • Active concentration1.0Declared concentration of heartleaf (houttuynia cordata); the rest — by position in the list
  • Completeness for the purpose0.8For “sensitive skin and redness” — 75 %; zinc oxide; could be added without conflict: zinc oxide; a narrow formula for one purpose
  • Tolerance1.0No ingredients from irritant or allergen lists
  • adults
  • sensitive skin
  • pregnancyallowed per the leaflet
  • children
  • babies
  • atopic skin
  • dry skin
  • oily skin
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • fragrance · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “fragrance and its allergens” group — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Sensitive skin needs soothing ingredients (panthenol, allantoin, bisabolol, centella, oatmeal, ectoin) and barrier ones (zinc oxide, ceramides, niacinamide) — one from each group — and as few irritants as possible: fragrance, alcohol, acids.
When:
  • leave-on
  • morning
  • evening
morning and evening
When to expect an effect: no measured timeline: the effect on human skin has not been studied; soothing — days; barrier — 2–4 weeks; redness — days; hydration — immediately; lasting effect — 2–4 weeks

Ingredients — 17 components · 4 work

What works: 4 of 17 ingredients: heartleaf, panthenol, madecassoside and 1 more. Sensitive skin needs soothing ingredients (panthenol, allantoin, bisabolol, centella, oatmeal, ectoin) and barrier ones (zinc oxide, ceramides, niacinamide) — one from each group — and as few irritants as possible: fragrance, alcohol, acids.

Strengths: active concentration, tolerance

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: no proven effect when applied: heartleaf; completeness for the purpose: for “sensitive skin and redness” — 75 %

Questions: no debatable ingredients in the formula

  • Hyaluronic acid + Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) — reinforce each othertwo humectants with different action: moisture plus soothing
  • Houttuynia Cordata Flower/Leaf/Stem Water works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: heartleaf water
  • Water base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • 1,2-Hexanediol base: coating, fillers · a solvent and humectant with antimicrobial action: it helps the product keep without classic preservatives.
  • Glycerin base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • Betaine base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Butylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · a humectant and solvent: it makes the texture lighter and helps actives spread. Better tolerated than propylene glycol.
  • Isopentyldiol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Panthenol works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: panthenol
  • Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Disodium EDTA base: coating, fillers · bind hard-water metals so the formula stays stable and the foam works
  • Tromethamine base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Centella Asiatica Extract works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: Centella extract
  • Arctium Lappa Root Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Phellinus Linteus Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Portulaca Oleracea Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract base: coating, fillers · the plant base: emollient oils, waxes and care extracts
  • Vitex Agnus-Castus Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Sodium Hyaluronate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate
  • Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate
  • Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate
  • Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate
  • Hyaluronic Acid works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate
  • Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate
  • Potassium Hyaluronate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate

Anua Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner is a product whose active ingredient is heartleaf (houttuynia cordata) + panthenol (pro-vitamin b5) + madecassoside (centella) + hyaluronic acid at a declared 77 %. There is no evidence of effect: heartleaf (houttuynia cordata). The effect is moderately supported: panthenol (pro-vitamin b5), hyaluronic acid. There is little evidence of effect: madecassoside (centella). The formula has 17 ingredients, 4 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Well-matched pairs in the formula: hyaluronic acid + panthenol (pro-vitamin b5). Sensitive skin needs soothing ingredients (panthenol, allantoin, bisabolol, centella, oatmeal, ectoin) and barrier ones (zinc oxide, ceramides, niacinamide) — one from each group — and as few irritants as possible: fragrance, alcohol, acids. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), fragrance, parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, sensitive skin, pregnancy, children, babies, atopic skin, dry skin, oily skin. Use: morning and evening. When to expect an effect: no measured timeline: the effect on human skin has not been studied. Label score — 7.9 out of 10 (no proven effect when applied: heartleaf (houttuynia cordata); declared concentration of heartleaf (houttuynia cordata); the rest — by position in the list; for “sensitive skin and redness” — 75 %; zinc oxide; could be added without conflict: zinc oxide; a narrow formula for one purpose).

Who it does not suit

When to stop: tightness in dry air — apply under a cream

Is this product right for your skin?

The score describes the formula, not your skin: the same product dries one person and saves another. Describe your skin type, reactions and goals, attach a photo of the ingredient list or the product — we will go through every ingredient and say whether it suits you, what to pair it with and what to avoid.

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