Formula · 2.2

Brand · 6.6

Bioderma · cleansing gel for oily skin · France

Bioderma Sébium Gel moussant

Bioderma Sébium Gel moussant
2.2

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.5Actives with strong evidence: 1 of 2
  • Active concentration0.1After the 1 % line: zinc salts (sulfate, gluconate), lactic acid — the concentration is likely token
  • Completeness for the purpose0.0For “acne and blackheads” — 4 %; without a BHA (salicylic acid) that clears pores from inside; without a retinoid — the main tool against new plugs; without benzoyl peroxide — the best-proven agent against acne bacteria; could be added without conflict: benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid (bha); below threshold: zinc salts (sulfate, gluconate); a narrow formula for one purpose
  • Tolerance0.8Rinse-off product; debatable groups: fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES)
  • adults
  • oily skin
  • pregnancyallowed per the leaflet
  • dry skin
  • sensitive skinstart at 5 %
  • before sunSPF is a must in the daytime
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
  • dry scalpmay dry
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Acne products work on four fronts: dissolve plugs (acids), calm inflammation (azelaic acid, niacinamide, zinc), kill bacteria (benzoyl peroxide, tea tree) and prevent new plugs (a retinoid). One active per front is enough; two or three different fronts work noticeably better.
When:
  • when washing, rinsed off
  • morning
  • evening
morning and evening
When to expect an effect: oily shine — weeks; do not expect fast action on inflamed spots; smoothness — 2–4 weeks
What is normal: mild tingling

Ingredients — 17 components · 2 work

What works: 2 of 17 ingredients: zinc salts, lactic acid. Acne products work on four fronts: dissolve plugs (acids), calm inflammation (azelaic acid, niacinamide, zinc), kill bacteria (benzoyl peroxide, tea tree) and prevent new plugs (a retinoid). One active per front is enough; two or three different fronts work noticeably better.

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: actives with strong evidence: 1 of 2; active concentration: after the 1 % line: zinc salts, lactic acid — the concentration is likely token; completeness for the purpose: for “acne and blackheads” — 4 %; tolerance: rinse-off product

Questions: sodium laureth sulfate (SLES): sodium laureth sulfate — the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products; fragrance and its allergens: fragrance — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

  • Aqua/Water/Eau base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Sodium Cocoamphoacetate base: coating, fillers · an amphoteric surfactant: gentle cleansing and stable foam, a usual partner to the sugar surfactants.
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate questions · the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products
  • Methylpropanediol base: coating, fillers · dissolves the other ingredients and holds the formula together
  • Disodium EDTA base: coating, fillers · bind hard-water metals so the formula stays stable and the foam works
  • Sodium Chloride base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Lactic Acid works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: AHA acid
  • Zinc Sulfate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: zinc sulfate
  • Copper Sulfate base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Potassium Sorbate base: coating, fillers · a mild preservative against mould and yeast: used both in cosmetics and in foods and supplements (E202).
  • Xylitol base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Fructooligosaccharides base: coating, fillers · plant sugars: they hold water and feed skin bacteria; in a product this is the humectant part of the base
  • Mannitol base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Rhamnose base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Propylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Sodium Hydroxide base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • Fragrance (Parfum questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

Bioderma Sébium Gel moussant is a product whose active ingredient is zinc salts (sulfate, gluconate) + lactic acid. The concentration is not declared and the active sits after the 1 % line — more for the label than for the effect. There is little evidence of effect: zinc salts (sulfate, gluconate). The effect is supported by studies: lactic acid. The formula has 17 ingredients, 2 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Sodium Laureth Sulfate (the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products); Fragrance (Parfum (the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works). Acne products work on four fronts: dissolve plugs (acids), calm inflammation (azelaic acid, niacinamide, zinc), kill bacteria (benzoyl peroxide, tea tree) and prevent new plugs (a retinoid). One active per front is enough; two or three different fronts work noticeably better. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, oily skin, pregnancy, dry skin. sensitive skin, before sun, atopic skin, dry scalp — ask a doctor. rosacea, eczema, children, fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: morning and evening. When to expect an effect: oily shine — weeks; do not expect fast action on inflamed spots. Label score — 2.2 out of 10 (actives with strong evidence: 1 of 2; after the 1 % line: zinc salts (sulfate, gluconate), lactic acid — the concentration is likely token; for “acne and blackheads” — 4 %; without a bha (salicylic acid) that clears pores from inside; without a retinoid — the main tool against new plugs; without benzoyl peroxide — the best-proven agent against acne bacteria; could be added without conflict: benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid (bha); below threshold: zinc salts (sulfate, gluconate); a narrow formula for one purpose; rinse-off product; debatable groups: fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested), sodium laureth sulfate (sles)).

Who it does not suit

  • rosacea, eczemanot on inflamed skin
  • childrenonly if prescribed
  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

When to stop: tightness and flaking — use it less often; burning, persistent redness — stop

Is this product right for your skin?

The score describes the formula, not your skin: the same product dries one person and saves another. Describe your skin type, reactions and goals, attach a photo of the ingredient list or the product — we will go through every ingredient and say whether it suits you, what to pair it with and what to avoid.

Cosmetic ingredient checkDecode my tests

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