Formula · 6.7

Brand · 7.5

Чёрный жемчуг · sodium hyaluronate and retinyl palmitate · Russia

Black Pearl Extreme Moisture day face cream

Black Pearl Extreme Moisture day face cream
6.7

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.5Actives with strong evidence: 0 of 4
  • Active concentration1.0After the 1 % line: collagen — the concentration is likely token
  • Completeness for the purpose0.7For “hydration” — 70 %; below threshold: dryness and a damaged barrier; a broad formula across 5 purposes
  • Tolerance0.6Debatable ingredient groups: parabens (skin test positive in 1 of 100 tested), fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested); comedogenic ingredients at a notable share (may clog pores): algae extract
  • adults
  • dry skin
  • oily skin
  • children
  • colour-treated hair
  • sensitive skinstart low
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
  • breastfeedingask a doctor
  • rosaceaask a dermatologist
  • before sunSPF is a must in the daytime
  • acne-pronemay clog pores in leave-on face products
  • nut allergywith a almond allergy — ask a doctor
  • prone to contact allergya rare but known allergen
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Hydrating products draw water into the upper skin layer (glycerin, hyaluronate, panthenol, ectoin) — one humectant is enough. Without barrier ingredients (niacinamide, ceramides, oils) the effect does not last.
When:
  • leave-on
  • morning
  • evening
morning and evening on damp skin, cream on top
When to expect an effect: hydration — immediately; lasting effect — 2–4 weeks; wrinkles, tone — 8–12 weeks; acne — 6–8; smoothness — right away, until the next wash; gives no visible effect alone — protects the formula's oils
What is normal: flaking, dryness, mild redness for 2–4 weeks (retinisation)

Ingredients — 41 component · 4 work

What works: 4 of 41 ingredients: hyaluronic acid, retinoid, collagen and 1 more. Hydrating products draw water into the upper skin layer (glycerin, hyaluronate, panthenol, ectoin) — one humectant is enough. Without barrier ingredients (niacinamide, ceramides, oils) the effect does not last.

Strengths: active concentration

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: actives with strong evidence: 0 of 4; completeness for the purpose: for “hydration” — 70 %; tolerance: debatable ingredient groups: parabens, fragrance and its allergens

Questions: parabens: ethylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm; fragrance and its allergens: fragrance — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works; carrageenan

  • Aqua base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Propylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Coco Caprylate/Caprate base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil base: coating, fillers · a light nourishing oil; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • Dimethicone base: coating, fillers · form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • Glycerin base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer base: coating, fillers · form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • Laminaria Digitata Extract base: coating, fillers · algae extract in an oil base; may clog pores in leave-on face products; a finished product with it is not always comedogenic
  • Retinyl Palmitate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: retinyl palmitate
  • Sodium Hyaluronate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate
  • Serine base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Tocopheryl Acetate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: tocopheryl acetate (ester; in cosmetics)
  • Alanine base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Ammonium Lactate base: coating, fillers · dissolves the bonds between dead flakes so they can come off
  • Butylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · a humectant and solvent: it makes the texture lighter and helps actives spread. Better tolerated than propylene glycol.
  • Caprylyl Glycol base: coating, fillers · a humectant that also holds bacteria back, which is why it often replaces part of the preservative.
  • Cholesterol base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Desamido Collagen works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: hydrolysed (type not stated)
  • Dipropylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Disodium EDTA base: coating, fillers · bind hard-water metals so the formula stays stable and the foam works
  • Ethylparaben questions · preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • Ethylhexylglycerin base: coating, fillers · a preservative booster and skin-conditioning ingredient: it barely preserves on its own but helps phenoxyethanol work and lowers the amount needed.
  • Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • 1,2-Hexanediol base: coating, fillers · a solvent and humectant with antimicrobial action: it helps the product keep without classic preservatives.
  • Hydroxyethyl Urea base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil base: coating, fillers · a light emollient oil rich in linoleic acid (in tablets — a coating component); does not clog pores
  • Hydrogenated Lecithin base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Isohexadecane base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Maltitol base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Methylparaben questions · preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • Polysorbate 60 base: coating, fillers · cleanse and bind water with oils; milder than the sulfate ones
  • PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil base: coating, fillers · coating glazing agent
  • Phenoxyethanol base: coating, fillers · the most widespread cosmetic preservative: it keeps the product sterile. Permitted in the EU up to 1 %, recognised as safe at that level.
  • Propylparaben questions · preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • Parfum questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Sodium Carrageenan questions · a thickener from red seaweed. It is permitted but debated: in animal studies the degraded form irritated the gut, so people with inflammatory bowel disease are sometimes advised to avoid it. For food-grade carrageenan there is no such proof.
  • Sea Salt base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Sodium Polyacrylate label wording · an allergen (sodium (salt)) — matters when limiting salt, for example with blood pressure; the label says it is absent
  • Sodium Benzoate base: coating, fillers · a preservative both in cosmetics and in supplements: a salt of benzoic acid that works in an acidic medium. Permitted as food additive E211 and in cosmetics up to 0.5 %.
  • Sodium Chloride base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Sodium Citrate base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Tocopherol works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: tocopheryl acetate (ester; in cosmetics)
  • Xanthan Gum base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate

Black Pearl Extreme Moisture day face cream is a product whose active ingredient is hyaluronic acid + retinoid + collagen + vitamin e. The concentration is not declared, but the active sits above the 1 % line in the list — a working share is likely. The effect is moderately supported: hyaluronic acid. There is little evidence of effect: retinoid, collagen, vitamin e. The formula has 41 ingredients, 4 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, Propylparaben (preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm); Parfum (the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works); Sodium Carrageenan. Hydrating products draw water into the upper skin layer (glycerin, hyaluronate, panthenol, ectoin) — one humectant is enough. Without barrier ingredients (niacinamide, ceramides, oils) the effect does not last. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, dry skin, oily skin, children, colour-treated hair. sensitive skin, atopic skin, breastfeeding, rosacea, before sun, acne-prone, nut allergy, prone to contact allergy — ask a doctor. pregnancy, fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: morning and evening on damp skin, cream on top. When to expect an effect: hydration — immediately; lasting effect — 2–4 weeks. Label score — 6.7 out of 10 (actives with strong evidence: 0 of 4; for “hydration” — 70 %; below threshold: dryness and a damaged barrier; a broad formula across 5 purposes; debatable ingredient groups: parabens (skin test positive in 1 of 100 tested), fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested); comedogenic ingredients at a notable share (may clog pores): algae extract). Fragrance, a colourant and three parabens are present — not suitable with an allergy to them. Retinyl palmitate is a vitamin A derivative: ask a doctor during pregnancy.

Who it does not suit

  • pregnancydo not use
  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

When to stop: tightness in dry air — apply under a cream; strong burning, swelling — stop; rarely — contact allergy: rash, itching — stop

Per the maker's leaflet: Fragrance, a colourant and three parabens are present — not suitable with an allergy to them. Retinyl palmitate is a vitamin A derivative: ask a doctor during pregnancy.

Is this product right for your skin?

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