Formula · 3.5

Brand · 5.7

Ducray · biotin + panthenol + wheat protein · France

Ducray Anaphase+ shampoo for weakened, shedding hair

Ducray Anaphase+ shampoo for weakened, shedding hair
3.5

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.4No proven effect when applied: biotin (vitamin b7), butcher’s broom extract (ruscus), tocopheryl nicotinate (vitamin e + vitamin b3)
  • Completeness for the purpose0.0For “hair shedding (topical)” — 4 %; niacinamide (vitamin b3); could be added without conflict: niacinamide (vitamin b3); below threshold: butcher’s broom extract (ruscus); a narrow formula for one purpose
  • Cleansing base0.6Harsh surfactants: sodium laureth sulfate (SLES); mild surfactants: sodium cocoamphoacetate; irritation potential of the base — 40 % of SLS
  • Tolerance0.8Rinse-off product; debatable groups: denatured alcohol, fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)
  • adults
  • children
  • babies
  • colour-treated hair
  • pregnancysalicylates — ask a doctor
  • sensitive skinstart at 0.5 %
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
  • gluten-freethis is a wheat protein — if you avoid wheat, choose another protein
  • dry skinmay dry
  • dry scalpmay dry
Free from:
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Topical products against shedding work weakly: only minoxidil is proven (a medicine we do not score); among cosmetics rosemary oil has moderate data, caffeine weak. The cause of shedding is found by tests: iron, thyroid, vitamin D.
When:
  • when washing, rinsed off
  • morning
any time
When to expect an effect: no effect on growth or shedding should be expected; soothing — days; barrier — 2–4 weeks; smoothness — immediately, until the next wash; pores, blackheads — 4–8 weeks; do not expect a noticeable effect on shedding — there are no measurements
What is normal: mild dryness and flaking in the first weeks; no noticeable change in the first weeks; slight warmth or redness of the scalp after applying

Ingredients — 27 components · 6 work

What works: 6 of 27 ingredients: biotin, panthenol, hydrolysed wheat protein and 3 more. Topical products against shedding work weakly: only minoxidil is proven (a medicine we do not score); among cosmetics rosemary oil has moderate data, caffeine weak. The cause of shedding is found by tests: iron, thyroid, vitamin D.

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: no proven effect when applied: biotin, butcher’s broom extract, tocopheryl nicotinate; completeness for the purpose: for “hair shedding” — 4 %; cleansing base: harsh surfactants: sodium laureth sulfate; tolerance: rinse-off product

Questions: sodium laureth sulfate (SLES): sodium laureth sulfate — the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products; denatured alcohol: alcohol — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores; fragrance and its allergens: fragrance

  • Water (Aqua base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate questions · the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products
  • Betaine base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Glycerin base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • Sodium Cocoamphoacetate base: coating, fillers · an amphoteric surfactant: gentle cleansing and stable foam, a usual partner to the sugar surfactants.
  • Acrylates Copolymer base: coating, fillers · an ingredient from the European cosmetic ingredient inventory; what exactly it does in this product is not described here yet
  • Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol base: coating, fillers · keeps the water and oil parts from separating
  • PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil base: coating, fillers · coating glazing agent
  • Alcohol questions · evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • Biotin works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: biotin
  • Citric Acid base: coating, fillers · acidity regulator
  • Fragrance (Parfum questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Glyceryl Laurate base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • Glycol Distearate base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: wheat protein hydrolysate
  • Panthenol works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: panthenol
  • Pantolactone base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Phenoxyethanol base: coating, fillers · the most widespread cosmetic preservative: it keeps the product sterile. Permitted in the EU up to 1 %, recognised as safe at that level.
  • Polyquaternium-7 base: coating, fillers · a conditioning polymer: it removes static, makes combing easier and softens the foam.
  • Pyridoxine HCl base: coating, fillers · vitamin B6 in a trace dose; applied topically it does not reach the hair or follicle — a label line that does not change how the product works
  • Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: root extract
  • Salicylic Acid works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: salicylic acid
  • Sodium Benzoate base: coating, fillers · a preservative both in cosmetics and in supplements: a salt of benzoic acid that works in an acidic medium. Permitted as food additive E211 and in cosmetics up to 0.5 %.
  • Sodium Chloride base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Sodium Hydroxide base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Tocopheryl Nicotinate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: nicotinate

Ducray Anaphase+ shampoo for weakened, shedding hair is a product whose active ingredient is biotin (vitamin b7) + panthenol (pro-vitamin b5) + hydrolysed wheat protein + salicylic acid (bha). The concentration is not declared, but the active sits above the 1 % line in the list — a working share is likely. There is no evidence of effect: biotin (vitamin b7), butcher’s broom extract (ruscus), tocopheryl nicotinate (vitamin e + vitamin b3). The effect is moderately supported: panthenol (pro-vitamin b5), salicylic acid (bha). There is little evidence of effect: hydrolysed wheat protein. The formula has 27 ingredients, 6 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Sodium Laureth Sulfate (the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products); Alcohol (evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores); Fragrance (Parfum). Topical products against shedding work weakly: only minoxidil is proven (a medicine we do not score); among cosmetics rosemary oil has moderate data, caffeine weak. The cause of shedding is found by tests: iron, thyroid, vitamin D. By the list, no formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, children, babies, colour-treated hair. pregnancy, sensitive skin, atopic skin, gluten-free, dry skin, dry scalp — ask a doctor. wheat allergy, fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: any time. When to expect an effect: no effect on growth or shedding should be expected. Label score — 3.5 out of 10 (no proven effect when applied: biotin (vitamin b7), butcher’s broom extract (ruscus), tocopheryl nicotinate (vitamin e + vitamin b3); for “hair shedding (topical)” — 4 %; niacinamide (vitamin b3); could be added without conflict: niacinamide (vitamin b3); below threshold: butcher’s broom extract (ruscus); a narrow formula for one purpose; harsh surfactants: sodium laureth sulfate (sles); mild surfactants: sodium cocoamphoacetate; irritation potential of the base — 40 % of sls; rinse-off product; debatable groups: denatured alcohol, fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)). Per the pack: avoid contact with eyes; rinse thoroughly with water on contact. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Who it does not suit

  • wheat allergyhives and anaphylaxis to hydrolysed wheat in cosmetics are described
  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

When to stop: itching, rash, swollen lips or eyelids — stop and see a doctor; burning, persistent redness — stop; persistent redness, itching or burning — stop

Per the maker's leaflet: Per the pack: avoid contact with eyes; rinse thoroughly with water on contact. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Is this product right for your hair?

The score describes the formula, not your hair: a sulfate shampoo suits an oily scalp and fails a dry, sensitive one. Tell us about your hair, scalp and the problem — shedding, dandruff, oiliness, dryness — and we will build a routine and say whether this product suits you.

Hair care matchDecode my tests

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