Formula · 2.4

Brand · 5.7

Ducray · lespedeza extract + milk thistle · France

Ducray Anti-Hair-Loss Serum

Ducray Anti-Hair-Loss Serum
2.4

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.4Little evidence of effect
  • Completeness for the purpose0.0For “hair shedding (topical)” — 0 %; niacinamide (vitamin b3); could be added without conflict: niacinamide (vitamin b3); below threshold: milk thistle fruit extract; a formula with one main purpose
  • Cleansing base0.8Mild surfactants: mild surfactants and emulsifiers; irritation potential of the base — 15 % of SLS
  • Tolerance0.9Debatable ingredient groups: denatured alcohol
  • adults
  • acne-prone
  • oily skin
  • dry skinmay dry
  • sensitive skinirritation possible
Free from:
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • fragrance · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “fragrance and its allergens” group — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Topical products against shedding work weakly: only minoxidil is proven (a medicine we do not score); among cosmetics rosemary oil has moderate data, caffeine weak. The cause of shedding is found by tests: iron, thyroid, vitamin D.
When:
  • leave-on
  • morning
  • evening
morning and evening on clean skin
When to expect an effect: clogged pores — 4–8 weeks per the maker's data

Ingredients — 16 components · 1 works

What works: 1 of 16 ingredients: milk thistle fruit extract. Topical products against shedding work weakly: only minoxidil is proven (a medicine we do not score); among cosmetics rosemary oil has moderate data, caffeine weak. The cause of shedding is found by tests: iron, thyroid, vitamin D.

Strengths: cleansing base, tolerance

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: little evidence of effect; completeness for the purpose: for “hair shedding” — 0 %

Questions: denatured alcohol — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores

  • WATER (AQUA base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • ALCOHOL DENAT questions · evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL base: coating, fillers · a volatile solvent alcohol, evaporates without residue; does not clog pores
  • PEG-6 base: coating, fillers · coating glazing agent
  • HEXYLENE GLYCOL base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • PENTYLENE GLYCOL base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • BUTYLENE GLYCOL base: coating, fillers · a humectant and solvent: it makes the texture lighter and helps actives spread. Better tolerated than propylene glycol.
  • CITRIC ACID base: coating, fillers · acidity regulator
  • LESPEDEZA CAPITATA FLOWER/LEAF/STEM EXTRACT base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • MANGANESE PCA base: coating, fillers · amino acids and PCA — substances the skin itself keeps in the outer layer to hold water; in a product they are humectants copying its own set
  • POLYACRYLATE-13 base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • POLYISOBUTENE base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • POLYSORBATE 20 base: coating, fillers · cleanse and bind water with oils; milder than the sulfate ones
  • SILYBUM MARIANUM FRUIT EXTRACT works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: fruit extract
  • SODIUM DILAURAMIDOGLUTAMIDE LYSINE base: coating, fillers · cleanse and bind water with oils; milder than the sulfate ones
  • SODIUM PHYTATE base: coating, fillers · bind hard-water metals so the formula stays stable and the foam works
  • SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE base: coating, fillers · a water-in-oil emulsifier; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products

Ducray Anti-Hair-Loss Serum is a product whose active ingredient is milk thistle fruit extract. The concentration is not declared and the active sits after the 1 % line — more for the label than for the effect. There is little evidence of effect: milk thistle fruit extract against clogged pores: a drop in comedone counts was shown in the maker's own studies, with no independent work. The formula has 16 ingredients, 1 of which does the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: ALCOHOL DENAT (evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores). Topical products against shedding work weakly: only minoxidil is proven (a medicine we do not score); among cosmetics rosemary oil has moderate data, caffeine weak. The cause of shedding is found by tests: iron, thyroid, vitamin D. By the list, no sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), fragrance, parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, acne-prone, oily skin. dry skin, sensitive skin — ask a doctor. asteraceae allergy — not without a doctor. Use: morning and evening on clean skin. When to expect an effect: clogged pores — 4–8 weeks per the maker's data. Label score — 2.4 out of 10 (little evidence of effect; for “hair shedding (topical)” — 0 %; niacinamide (vitamin b3); could be added without conflict: niacinamide (vitamin b3); below threshold: milk thistle fruit extract; a formula with one main purpose; mild surfactants: mild surfactants and emulsifiers; irritation potential of the base — 15 % of sls; debatable ingredient groups: denatured alcohol). Per the pack: for external use, apply to the scalp, avoid contact with the eyes. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Who it does not suit

  • asteraceae allergymilk thistle is in the same family as ragweed and mugwort

When to stop: redness and tightness — stop

Per the maker's leaflet: Per the pack: for external use, apply to the scalp, avoid contact with the eyes. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Is this product right for your hair?

The score describes the formula, not your hair: a sulfate shampoo suits an oily scalp and fails a dry, sensitive one. Tell us about your hair, scalp and the problem — shedding, dandruff, oiliness, dryness — and we will build a routine and say whether this product suits you.