Formula · 8.6

Brand · 5.7

Ducray · ciclopirox olamine + piroctone olamine · France

Ducray Kelual DS shampoo for severe dandruff conditions

Ducray Kelual DS shampoo for severe dandruff conditions
8.6

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence1.0Actives with strong evidence: 2 of 2
  • Completeness for the purpose1.0For “dandruff and itchy scalp” — 100 %; without salicylic acid, which lifts the flakes; nasturtium extract; could be added without conflict: salicylic acid (bha), nasturtium extract; a narrow formula for one purpose
  • Cleansing base0.6Harsh surfactants: sodium laureth sulfate (SLES); mild surfactants: coco-betaine, decyl glucoside; irritation potential of the base — 37 % of SLS
  • Tolerance0.9Rinse-off product; debatable groups: fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)
  • adults
  • colour-treated hair
  • for dandruff
  • oily scalp
  • childrenstudied from age 16; younger — only if a doctor prescribes
  • pregnancyno studies in pregnancy — discuss with a doctor
  • sensitive skinirritation possible
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
  • dry scalpmay dry
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Dandruff is the Malassezia fungus plus accelerated flaking. You need an antifungal active (piroctone olamine, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole) and a mild cleansing base; results come after 2–4 weeks of regular washing.
When:
  • when washing, rinsed off
2–3 times a week, leave on the scalp for 3–5 minutes and rinse
When to expect an effect: less dandruff and itching after 2–4 weeks of regular washing; dandruff — 2–4 weeks of regular use
What is normal: slight tingling during the first uses

Ingredients — 16 components · 2 work

What works: 2 of 16 ingredients: ciclopirox olamine, piroctone olamine. Dandruff is the Malassezia fungus plus accelerated flaking. You need an antifungal active (piroctone olamine, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole) and a mild cleansing base; results come after 2–4 weeks of regular washing.

Strengths: actives and evidence, completeness for the purpose, tolerance

What lowers the score: cleansing base: harsh surfactants: sodium laureth sulfate

Questions: sodium laureth sulfate (SLES): sodium laureth sulfate — the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products; fragrance and its allergens: fragrance — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

  • Water (Aqua base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate questions · the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products
  • Undecylenamidopropyl Betaine base: coating, fillers · washes oil and dirt off skin or hair
  • Decyl Glucoside base: coating, fillers · one of the gentlest cleansing ingredients: a sugar surfactant that barely disturbs the skin barrier.
  • Ciclopirox Olamine works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: ciclopirox olamine
  • Laureth-9 base: coating, fillers · keeps the water and oil parts from separating
  • Lactamide MEA base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Coco-Betaine base: coating, fillers · an amphoteric surfactant from coconut oil: it cleanses and stabilises foam. Slightly harsher than cocamidopropyl betaine, yet clearly milder than the sulfates.
  • Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol base: coating, fillers · keeps the water and oil parts from separating
  • Citric Acid base: coating, fillers · acidity regulator
  • Fragrance (Parfum questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Glycyrrhetinic Acid base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract base: coating, fillers · gives taste — in toothpastes and mouth products
  • Pentylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Piroctone Olamine works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: piroctone olamine
  • Polyquaternium-10 base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate base: coating, fillers · bind hard-water metals so the formula stays stable and the foam works

Ducray Kelual DS shampoo for severe dandruff conditions is a product whose active ingredient is ciclopirox olamine + piroctone olamine. The concentration is not declared, but the active sits above the 1 % line in the list — a working share is likely. The effect is supported by studies: ciclopirox olamine, piroctone olamine. The formula has 16 ingredients, 2 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Sodium Laureth Sulfate (the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products); Fragrance (Parfum) (the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works). Dandruff is the Malassezia fungus plus accelerated flaking. You need an antifungal active (piroctone olamine, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole) and a mild cleansing base; results come after 2–4 weeks of regular washing. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, colour-treated hair, for dandruff, oily scalp. children, pregnancy, sensitive skin, atopic skin, dry scalp — ask a doctor. fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: 2–3 times a week, leave on the scalp for 3–5 minutes and rinse. When to expect an effect: less dandruff and itching after 2–4 weeks of regular washing. Label score — 8.6 out of 10 (harsh surfactants: sodium laureth sulfate (sles); mild surfactants: coco-betaine, decyl glucoside; irritation potential of the base — 37 % of sls; rinse-off product; debatable groups: fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)). Per the pack: apply to intact scalp; avoid the eyes; stop if burning or a rash appears. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Who it does not suit

  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

When to stop: worsening itch, rash or burning — stop and see a doctor; itching, rash — stop

Per the maker's leaflet: Per the pack: apply to intact scalp; avoid the eyes; stop if burning or a rash appears. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Is this product right for your hair?

The score describes the formula, not your hair: a sulfate shampoo suits an oily scalp and fails a dry, sensitive one. Tell us about your hair, scalp and the problem — shedding, dandruff, oiliness, dryness — and we will build a routine and say whether this product suits you.

Hair care matchDecode my tests

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