Formula · 3.3

Brand · 3.3

Невская Косметика · birch tar · Russia

Nevskaya Kosmetika Tar Shampoo

Nevskaya Kosmetika Tar Shampoo
3.3

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.4Little evidence of effect
  • Completeness for the purpose0.4For “dandruff and itchy scalp” — 40 %; piroctone olamine; nasturtium extract; could be added without conflict: piroctone olamine, nasturtium extract; a narrow formula for one purpose
  • Cleansing base0.4Harsh surfactants: ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES); mild surfactants: cocamidopropyl betaine; irritation potential of the base — 59 % of SLS
  • Tolerance0.2Rinse-off product; debatable groups: cocamide DEA, isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI) (skin test positive in 6 of 100 tested), isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI), wood (birch) tar
  • adults
  • oily scalp
  • dandruff
  • dry scalptar is drying: on a dry scalp it increases tightness and flaking
  • sensitive scalpin some people tar causes irritation and itching — start with infrequent use
  • colour-treated hairtar is dark and can shift the tone of light colouring
  • pregnancyno studies in pregnancy — discuss with a doctor
  • dry skinmay dry
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • fragrance · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “fragrance and its allergens” group — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
What for: Dandruff is the Malassezia fungus plus accelerated flaking. You need an antifungal active (piroctone olamine, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole) and a mild cleansing base; results come after 2–4 weeks of regular washing.
When:
  • when washing, rinsed off
when washing, lather and leave for 3–5 minutes; start with twice a week
When to expect an effect: flaking — 2–4 weeks of regular use
What is normal: a sharp smell and slight dryness after washing are usual for tar

Ingredients — 10 components · 1 works

What works: 1 of 10 ingredients: birch tar. Dandruff is the Malassezia fungus plus accelerated flaking. You need an antifungal active (piroctone olamine, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole) and a mild cleansing base; results come after 2–4 weeks of regular washing.

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: little evidence of effect; completeness for the purpose: for “dandruff and itchy scalp” — 40 %; cleansing base: harsh surfactants: ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate; tolerance: rinse-off product

Questions: ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS): ammonium lauryl sulfate — a harsh cleansing surfactant, a close relative of SLS: strong foam, but it dries skin and scalp. In rinse-off products this is a tolerance question, not a safety one.; sodium laureth sulfate (SLES): sodium laureth sulfate — the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products; cocamide DEA; isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI): methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone

  • Aqua base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate questions · a harsh cleansing surfactant, a close relative of SLS: strong foam, but it dries skin and scalp. In rinse-off products this is a tolerance question, not a safety one.
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate questions · the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products
  • Cocamide DEA questions · a thickener and foam booster. It is restricted: in the presence of nitrites diethanolamides can form nitrosamines, so the regulator caps secondary amines and forbids nitrosating additives; California lists it under Proposition 65.
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine base: coating, fillers · a mild amphoteric surfactant: it builds dense foam and softens the harsh sulfates next to it. It occasionally causes contact allergy, and the culprit is a manufacturing impurity rather than the ingredient itself.
  • Betula Tar works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: birch tar
  • Polyquaternium-10 base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Methylchloroisothiazolinone questions · preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • Methylisothiazolinone questions · preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • Sodium Chloride base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Citric Acid base: coating, fillers · acidity regulator

Nevskaya Kosmetika Tar Shampoo is a product whose active ingredient is birch tar. The concentration is not declared, but the active sits above the 1 % line in the list — a working share is likely. There is little evidence of effect: tar is one of the oldest remedies for scalp scaling and itching: it slows the division of cells in the horny layer and suppresses fungus. The evidence base was built mostly on coal tar, while birch tar has been studied little, so the level is low. It smells sharp, dries the hair and can irritate a sensitive scalp. The formula has 10 ingredients, 1 of which does the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (a harsh cleansing surfactant, a close relative of SLS: strong foam, but it dries skin and scalp. In rinse-off products this is a tolerance question, not a safety one.); Sodium Laureth Sulfate (the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products); Cocamide DEA; Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone. Dandruff is the Malassezia fungus plus accelerated flaking. You need an antifungal active (piroctone olamine, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole) and a mild cleansing base; results come after 2–4 weeks of regular washing. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), formaldehyde releasers, fragrance, parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes. Suitable for: adults, oily scalp, dandruff. dry scalp, sensitive scalp, colour-treated hair, pregnancy, dry skin — ask a doctor. prone to contact allergy — not without a doctor. Use: when washing, lather and leave for 3–5 minutes; start with twice a week. When to expect an effect: flaking — 2–4 weeks of regular use. Label score — 3.3 out of 10 (little evidence of effect; for “dandruff and itchy scalp” — 40 %; piroctone olamine; nasturtium extract; could be added without conflict: piroctone olamine, nasturtium extract; a narrow formula for one purpose; harsh surfactants: ammonium lauryl sulfate (als), sodium laureth sulfate (sles); mild surfactants: cocamidopropyl betaine; irritation potential of the base — 59 % of sls; rinse-off product; debatable groups: cocamide dea, isothiazolinone preservatives (mit/mci) (skin test positive in 6 of 100 tested), isothiazolinone preservatives (mit/mci), wood (birch) tar). Per the pack: for external use, avoid contact with the eyes; do not use if you are intolerant to any component. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Who it does not suit

  • prone to contact allergyone of the most frequent cosmetic allergens

When to stop: burning, persistent redness, worsening itching — stop

Per the maker's leaflet: Per the pack: for external use, avoid contact with the eyes; do not use if you are intolerant to any component. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Is this product right for your hair?

The score describes the formula, not your hair: a sulfate shampoo suits an oily scalp and fails a dry, sensitive one. Tell us about your hair, scalp and the problem — shedding, dandruff, oiliness, dryness — and we will build a routine and say whether this product suits you.

Hair care matchDecode my tests

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