Formula · 6.8

Brand · 5.9

Tefia · wheat protein + shea and jojoba oils · Russia

Tefia MyCare smoothing cream for curly hair

Tefia MyCare smoothing cream for curly hair
6.8

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.4Actives with strong evidence: 0 of 3
  • Completeness for the purpose1.0For “dry and damaged hair” — 100 %; below threshold: jojoba oil; a broad formula across 4 purposes
  • Tolerance0.9Debatable ingredient groups: benzyl alcohol, parabens (skin test positive in 1 of 100 tested), fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)
  • adults
  • children
  • pregnancyallowed per the leaflet
  • dry skin
  • babies
  • oily skin
  • gluten-freethis is a wheat protein — if you avoid wheat, choose another protein
  • sensitive skinirritation possible
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
  • acne-pronemay clog pores
  • nut allergywith a almond allergy — ask a doctor
  • prone to contact allergya rare but known allergen
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Damaged hair is helped on two fronts: oils that penetrate the shaft (only coconut oil is proven) and a film on the outside — silicones, panthenol, hydrolysed proteins. One from each front is enough; “collagen” and “biotin” in a shampoo work only on the label.
When:
  • leave-on
in a mask or conditioner after washing, along the length
When to expect an effect: smoothness — immediately, until the next wash; dryness — immediately; barrier — 2–4 weeks; softness — immediately; barrier — 2–4 weeks
What is normal: a light film on the skin

Ingredients — 36 components · 3 work

What works: 3 of 36 ingredients: hydrolysed wheat protein, shea butter, jojoba oil. Damaged hair is helped on two fronts: oils that penetrate the shaft (only coconut oil is proven) and a film on the outside — silicones, panthenol, hydrolysed proteins. One from each front is enough; “collagen” and “biotin” in a shampoo work only on the label.

Strengths: completeness for the purpose, tolerance

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: actives with strong evidence: 0 of 3

Questions: parabens: methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm; fragrance and its allergens: fragrance, hexyl cinnamal, limonene, alpha-isomethyl ionone, linalool, coumarin — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works; benzyl alcohol

  • Aqua (Water base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Cetearyl Alcohol base: coating, fillers · a fatty-alcohol blend (C16–C18), an emulsifier and thickener, does not dry the skin; paired with ceteareth-20 — 4 of 5; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • Myristyl Alcohol base: coating, fillers · a fatty alcohol (C14), an emulsifier; the most irritating of the fatty alcohols; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • Polyquaternium-11 base: coating, fillers · leaves a thin film on skin or hair
  • Ceteareth-20 base: coating, fillers · an ethoxylated cream emulsifier; paired with cetearyl alcohol — 4 of 5; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • Polyquaternium-37 base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Dimethicone base: coating, fillers · form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • Phenyl Trimethicone base: coating, fillers · form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • Lanolin base: coating, fillers · sheep-wool wax, a rich softening and protective ingredient; does not clog pores
  • Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone base: coating, fillers · form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: wheat protein hydrolysate
  • Lactic Acid base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Malic Acid base: coating, fillers · keeps the acidity of the product within the right range
  • Citric Acid base: coating, fillers · acidity regulator
  • Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: butter
  • Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil base: coating, fillers · a light nourishing oil; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • Glycerin base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: seed oil
  • Behentrimonium Chloride base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Phenoxyethanol base: coating, fillers · the most widespread cosmetic preservative: it keeps the product sterile. Permitted in the EU up to 1 %, recognised as safe at that level.
  • Methylparaben questions · preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • Ethylparaben questions · preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • Propylparaben questions · preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • Sodium Benzoate base: coating, fillers · a preservative both in cosmetics and in supplements: a salt of benzoic acid that works in an acidic medium. Permitted as food additive E211 and in cosmetics up to 0.5 %.
  • Potassium Sorbate base: coating, fillers · a mild preservative against mould and yeast: used both in cosmetics and in foods and supplements (E202).
  • Isopropyl Alcohol base: coating, fillers · a volatile solvent alcohol, evaporates without residue; does not clog pores
  • Parfum (Fragrance questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Hexyl Cinnamal questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Limonene questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Linalool questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Benzyl Alcohol questions · a preservative and solvent permitted in the EU up to 1 %. It is also on the list of 26 fragrance allergens that must be declared separately, which matters to people allergic to fragrance.
  • Coumarin questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

Tefia MyCare smoothing cream for curly hair is a product whose active ingredient is hydrolysed wheat protein + shea butter + jojoba oil. The concentration is not declared, but the active sits above the 1 % line in the list — a working share is likely. There is little evidence of effect: hydrolysed wheat protein, shea butter, jojoba oil. The formula has 36 ingredients, 3 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben (preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm); Parfum (Fragrance), Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Linalool, Coumarin (the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works); Benzyl Alcohol. Damaged hair is helped on two fronts: oils that penetrate the shaft (only coconut oil is proven) and a film on the outside — silicones, panthenol, hydrolysed proteins. One from each front is enough; “collagen” and “biotin” in a shampoo work only on the label. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, children, pregnancy, dry skin, babies, oily skin. gluten-free, sensitive skin, atopic skin, acne-prone, nut allergy, prone to contact allergy — ask a doctor. wheat allergy, fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: in a mask or conditioner after washing, along the length. When to expect an effect: smoothness — immediately, until the next wash. Label score — 6.8 out of 10 (actives with strong evidence: 0 of 3; debatable ingredient groups: benzyl alcohol, parabens (skin test positive in 1 of 100 tested), fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)). Per the pack: for external use only; stop if irritation appears. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Who it does not suit

  • wheat allergyhives and anaphylaxis to hydrolysed wheat in cosmetics are described
  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

When to stop: itching, rash, swollen lips or eyelids — stop and see a doctor

Per the maker's leaflet: Per the pack: for external use only; stop if irritation appears. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Is this product right for your hair?

The score describes the formula, not your hair: a sulfate shampoo suits an oily scalp and fails a dry, sensitive one. Tell us about your hair, scalp and the problem — shedding, dandruff, oiliness, dryness — and we will build a routine and say whether this product suits you.

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