Formula · 3.0

Brand · 3.8

Estel Professional · marine collagen · Russia

Estel Alpha Homme Marine men’s shampoo for a clean, fresh scalp

Estel Alpha Homme Marine men’s shampoo for a clean, fresh scalp
3.0

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.4Little evidence of effect
  • Completeness for the purpose0.2For “dry and damaged hair” — 19 %; without coconut oil — the only oil proven to reduce protein loss; could be added without conflict: coconut oil; below threshold: collagen; a formula with one main purpose
  • Cleansing base0.5Harsh surfactants: sodium laureth sulfate (SLES); irritation potential of the base — 50 % of SLS
  • Tolerance0.2Rinse-off product; debatable groups: cocamide DEA, isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI) (skin test positive in 6 of 100 tested), isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI), fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)
  • adults
  • children
  • pregnancytopical — allowed
  • colour-treated hair
  • sensitive skinirritation possible
  • acne-pronemay clog pores in leave-on face products
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
  • dry scalpmay dry
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Damaged hair is helped on two fronts: oils that penetrate the shaft (only coconut oil is proven) and a film on the outside — silicones, panthenol, hydrolysed proteins. One from each front is enough; “collagen” and “biotin” in a shampoo work only on the label.
When:
  • when washing, rinsed off
in a shampoo, conditioner or mask after washing, along the length
When to expect an effect: smoothness — right away, until the next wash

Ingredients — 17 components · 1 works

What works: 1 of 17 ingredients: collagen. Damaged hair is helped on two fronts: oils that penetrate the shaft (only coconut oil is proven) and a film on the outside — silicones, panthenol, hydrolysed proteins. One from each front is enough; “collagen” and “biotin” in a shampoo work only on the label.

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: little evidence of effect; completeness for the purpose: for “dry and damaged hair” — 19 %; cleansing base: harsh surfactants: sodium laureth sulfate; tolerance: rinse-off product

Questions: sodium laureth sulfate (SLES): sodium laureth sulfate — the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products; cocamide DEA — a thickener and foam booster. It is restricted: in the presence of nitrites diethanolamides can form nitrosamines, so the regulator caps secondary amines and forbids nitrosating additives; California lists it under Proposition 65.; fragrance and its allergens: fragrance, limonene, linalool, butylphenyl methylpropional (lilial); isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI): methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone

  • Aqua base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate questions · the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products
  • Potassium Laureth-4 Carboxylate base: coating, fillers · an ethoxylated emulsifier; may clog pores in leave-on face products; a finished product with it is not always comedogenic
  • Cocamide DEA questions · a thickener and foam booster. It is restricted: in the presence of nitrites diethanolamides can form nitrosamines, so the regulator caps secondary amines and forbids nitrosating additives; California lists it under Proposition 65.
  • PPG-3 Caprylyl Ether base: coating, fillers · dissolves the other ingredients and holds the formula together
  • Parfum questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Limonene questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Linalool questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Butylphenyl Methylpropional questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Sea Salt base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Polyquaternium-10 base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Lactic Acid base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Soluble Collagen works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: type I (hydrolysate)
  • Caprylyl Glycol base: coating, fillers · a humectant that also holds bacteria back, which is why it often replaces part of the preservative.
  • Citric Acid base: coating, fillers · acidity regulator
  • Tetrasodium EDTA base: coating, fillers · bind hard-water metals so the formula stays stable and the foam works
  • Methylchloroisothiazolinone questions · preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • Methylisothiazolinone questions · preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy

Estel Alpha Homme Marine men’s shampoo for a clean, fresh scalp is a product whose active ingredient is collagen. The concentration is not declared; the active sits after the 1 % line, but works at small shares. There is little evidence of effect: the molecule does not penetrate skin — works as a hydrating film, does not rebuild collagen. The formula has 17 ingredients, 1 of which does the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Sodium Laureth Sulfate (the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products); Cocamide DEA (a thickener and foam booster. It is restricted: in the presence of nitrites diethanolamides can form nitrosamines, so the regulator caps secondary amines and forbids nitrosating additives; California lists it under Proposition 65.); Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional; Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone. Damaged hair is helped on two fronts: oils that penetrate the shaft (only coconut oil is proven) and a film on the outside — silicones, panthenol, hydrolysed proteins. One from each front is enough; “collagen” and “biotin” in a shampoo work only on the label. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), formaldehyde releasers, parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, children, pregnancy, colour-treated hair. sensitive skin, acne-prone, atopic skin, dry scalp — ask a doctor. prone to contact allergy, fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: in a shampoo, conditioner or mask after washing, along the length. When to expect an effect: smoothness — right away, until the next wash. Label score — 3.0 out of 10 (little evidence of effect; for “dry and damaged hair” — 19 %; without coconut oil — the only oil proven to reduce protein loss; could be added without conflict: coconut oil; below threshold: collagen; a formula with one main purpose; harsh surfactants: sodium laureth sulfate (sles); irritation potential of the base — 50 % of sls; rinse-off product; debatable groups: cocamide dea, isothiazolinone preservatives (mit/mci) (skin test positive in 6 of 100 tested), isothiazolinone preservatives (mit/mci), fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)). Per the pack: avoid contact with eyes; rinse thoroughly with water on contact. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Who it does not suit

  • prone to contact allergyone of the most frequent cosmetic allergens
  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

Per the maker's leaflet: Per the pack: avoid contact with eyes; rinse thoroughly with water on contact. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Is this product right for your hair?

The score describes the formula, not your hair: a sulfate shampoo suits an oily scalp and fails a dry, sensitive one. Tell us about your hair, scalp and the problem — shedding, dandruff, oiliness, dryness — and we will build a routine and say whether this product suits you.

Hair care matchDecode my tests

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