Formula · 6.1

Brand · 5.9

René Furterer · panthenol + echinacea extract · France

René Furterer Astera Fresh Soothing Scalp Serum

René Furterer Astera Fresh Soothing Scalp Serum
6.1

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.6No proven effect when applied: echinacea extract
  • Completeness for the purpose0.4For “sensitive scalp” — 36 %; below threshold: panthenol (pro-vitamin b5); a narrow formula for one purpose
  • Cleansing base0.8Mild surfactants: mild surfactants and emulsifiers; irritation potential of the base — 15 % of SLS
  • Tolerance0.5Debatable ingredient groups: denatured alcohol, BHT and BHA (antioxidants), menthol, fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested); comedogenic ingredients at a notable share (may clog pores): ethylhexyl palmitate
  • adults
  • children
  • colour-treated hair
  • oily skin
  • pregnancyno studies in pregnancy — discuss with a doctor
  • sensitive skinat 10 % flushing is possible
  • babiesnot applied to a baby face or near the nose
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
  • acne-pronemay clog pores in leave-on face products
  • rosaceaask a dermatologist
  • dry skinmay dry
Free from:
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: A sensitive scalp needs two things: a mild cleansing base without harsh sulfates and fragrance, and a soothing ingredient — panthenol, allantoin or bisabolol. Itching and tightness ease within 1–2 weeks; if not, the cause is the skin (dermatitis, psoriasis), not the shampoo, and a doctor is needed.
When:
  • leave-on
  • morning
  • daytime
  • evening
any time, can be applied often
When to expect an effect: soothing — days; barrier — 2–4 weeks; do not expect a separate effect from echinacea; tone, pores — 4–8 weeks; sebum — 2–4
What is normal: the cooling feeling comes from menthol, if present, not from echinacea; mild flushing in the first days at high concentration

Ingredients — 33 components · 3 work

What works: 3 of 33 ingredients: panthenol, echinacea extract, niacinamide. A sensitive scalp needs two things: a mild cleansing base without harsh sulfates and fragrance, and a soothing ingredient — panthenol, allantoin or bisabolol. Itching and tightness ease within 1–2 weeks; if not, the cause is the skin (dermatitis, psoriasis), not the shampoo, and a doctor is needed.

Strengths: cleansing base

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: no proven effect when applied: echinacea extract; completeness for the purpose: for “sensitive scalp” — 36 %; tolerance: debatable ingredient groups: denatured alcohol, bht and bha, menthol, fragrance and its allergens

Questions: denatured alcohol — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores; BHT and BHA (antioxidants): bht — antioxidants that keep oils from going rancid: hundredths of a percent in cosmetics, and E321 and E320 in supplements. A frequent buyer question, with no proven harm at these levels.; fragrance and its allergens: limonene, terpineol; menthol

  • WATER (AQUA base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • ALCOHOL DENAT questions · evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • GLYCERIN base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE base: coating, fillers · a light emollient, gives slip; may clog pores in leave-on face products; a finished product with it is not always comedogenic
  • GLYCINE base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • BETA-CARYOPHYLLENE base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • BHT questions · antioxidants that keep oils from going rancid: hundredths of a percent in cosmetics, and E321 and E320 in supplements. A frequent buyer question, with no proven harm at these levels.
  • BLUE 1 (CI 42090 base: coating, fillers · give the product its colour; do not affect how it works
  • CARVONE base: coating, fillers · gives taste — in toothpastes and mouth products
  • CITRIC ACID base: coating, fillers · acidity regulator
  • ECHINACEA ANGUSTIFOLIA ROOT EXTRACT works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: echinacea root extract
  • EUCALYPTUS GLOBULUS LEAF/TWIG OIL (EUCALYPTUS GLOBULUS OIL base: coating, fillers · gives the product its scent
  • GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) OIL (GLYCINE SOJA OIL base: coating, fillers · the plant base: emollient oils, waxes and care extracts
  • GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) STEROLS (GLYCINE SOJA STEROLS base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • GLYCOLIPIDS base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • GREEN 5 (CI 61570 base: coating, fillers · gives colour to the product or the skin
  • ISOHEXADECANE base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • LIMONENE questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • LINSEED ACID base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • MENTHA VIRIDIS (SPEARMINT) LEAF OIL (MENTHA VIRIDIS LEAF OIL base: coating, fillers · tightens the skin slightly, so pores look smaller
  • MENTHOL questions · gives a cooling sensation and mild numbing. It irritates sensitive skin and mucous membranes, and it worsens redness in rosacea.
  • NIACINAMIDE works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: niacinamide
  • PANTHENOL works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: panthenol
  • PANTOLACTONE base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • PHOSPHOLIPIDS base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • PINENE base: coating, fillers · stops the product foaming where lather is not wanted
  • POLYSORBATE 60 base: coating, fillers · cleanse and bind water with oils; milder than the sulfate ones
  • POTASSIUM SORBATE base: coating, fillers · a mild preservative against mould and yeast: used both in cosmetics and in foods and supplements (E202).
  • SODIUM BENZOATE base: coating, fillers · a preservative both in cosmetics and in supplements: a salt of benzoic acid that works in an acidic medium. Permitted as food additive E211 and in cosmetics up to 0.5 %.
  • SODIUM HYDROXIDE base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE base: coating, fillers · a water-in-oil emulsifier; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • TERPINEOL questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • TOCOPHERYL ACETATE base: coating, fillers · vitamin E at hundredths of a percent: keeps the oils of the formula (a cream or a capsule fill) from going rancid; at that share it protects the product, it is not vitamin E as an active

René Furterer Astera Fresh Soothing Scalp Serum is a product whose active ingredient is panthenol (pro-vitamin b5) + echinacea extract + niacinamide (vitamin b3). The concentration is not declared and the active sits after the 1 % line — more for the label than for the effect. The effect is moderately supported: panthenol (pro-vitamin b5). There is no evidence of effect: echinacea extract. The effect is supported by studies: niacinamide (vitamin b3). The formula has 33 ingredients, 3 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: ALCOHOL DENAT (evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores); BHT (antioxidants that keep oils from going rancid: hundredths of a percent in cosmetics, and E321 and E320 in supplements. A frequent buyer question, with no proven harm at these levels.); LIMONENE, TERPINEOL; MENTHOL. A sensitive scalp needs two things: a mild cleansing base without harsh sulfates and fragrance, and a soothing ingredient — panthenol, allantoin or bisabolol. Itching and tightness ease within 1–2 weeks; if not, the cause is the skin (dermatitis, psoriasis), not the shampoo, and a doctor is needed. By the list, no sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, children, colour-treated hair, oily skin. pregnancy, sensitive skin, babies, atopic skin, acne-prone, rosacea, dry skin — ask a doctor. Asteraceae allergy, fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: any time, can be applied often. When to expect an effect: soothing — days; barrier — 2–4 weeks. Label score — 6.1 out of 10 (no proven effect when applied: echinacea extract; for “sensitive scalp” — 36 %; below threshold: panthenol (pro-vitamin b5); a narrow formula for one purpose; mild surfactants: mild surfactants and emulsifiers; irritation potential of the base — 15 % of sls; debatable ingredient groups: denatured alcohol, bht and bha (antioxidants), menthol, fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested); comedogenic ingredients at a notable share (may clog pores): ethylhexyl palmitate). Per the pack: for external use, apply to the scalp, avoid contact with the eyes. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Who it does not suit

  • Asteraceae allergyechinacea belongs to the Asteraceae family, like ragweed and mugwort: a cross-reaction is possible if you are allergic to those
  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

When to stop: persistent burning — stop

Per the maker's leaflet: Per the pack: for external use, apply to the scalp, avoid contact with the eyes. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Is this product right for your hair?

The score describes the formula, not your hair: a sulfate shampoo suits an oily scalp and fails a dry, sensitive one. Tell us about your hair, scalp and the problem — shedding, dandruff, oiliness, dryness — and we will build a routine and say whether this product suits you.

Hair care matchDecode my tests

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