Formula · 6.0

Brand · 5.9

René Furterer · echinacea extract + panthenol · France

René Furterer Astera Fresh Soothing Shampoo

René Furterer Astera Fresh Soothing Shampoo
6.0

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.5No proven effect when applied: echinacea extract
  • Completeness for the purpose0.4For “sensitive scalp” — 36 %; below threshold: panthenol (pro-vitamin b5); a narrow formula for one purpose
  • Cleansing base0.8Mild surfactants: decyl glucoside, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, mild surfactants and emulsifiers; irritation potential of the base — 19 % of SLS
  • Tolerance0.7Rinse-off product; debatable groups: camphor, menthol, fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)
  • adults
  • colour-treated hair
  • pregnancyno studies in pregnancy — discuss with a doctor
  • sensitive skinburning possible
  • childrendo not apply to the face
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
  • rosaceaincreases redness
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: A sensitive scalp needs two things: a mild cleansing base without harsh sulfates and fragrance, and a soothing ingredient — panthenol, allantoin or bisabolol. Itching and tightness ease within 1–2 weeks; if not, the cause is the skin (dermatitis, psoriasis), not the shampoo, and a doctor is needed.
When:
  • when washing, rinsed off
on the scalp, massage in; in a shampoo — leave on for 2 minutes
When to expect an effect: do not expect a separate effect from echinacea; soothing — days; barrier — 2–4 weeks
What is normal: the cooling feeling comes from menthol, if present, not from echinacea

Ingredients — 32 components · 2 work

What works: 2 of 32 ingredients: echinacea extract, panthenol. A sensitive scalp needs two things: a mild cleansing base without harsh sulfates and fragrance, and a soothing ingredient — panthenol, allantoin or bisabolol. Itching and tightness ease within 1–2 weeks; if not, the cause is the skin (dermatitis, psoriasis), not the shampoo, and a doctor is needed.

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: no proven effect when applied: echinacea extract; completeness for the purpose: for “sensitive scalp” — 36 %; cleansing base: mild surfactants: decyl glucoside, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, mild surfactants and emulsifiers; tolerance: rinse-off product

Questions: camphor — a warming and cooling ingredient of rubs. It irritates sensitive skin, and camphor products are not applied to a baby face or chest: the vapour is dangerous for breathing.; fragrance and its allergens: fragrance, limonene — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works; menthol

  • WATER (AQUA base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • DECYL GLUCOSIDE base: coating, fillers · one of the gentlest cleansing ingredients: a sugar surfactant that barely disturbs the skin barrier.
  • SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE base: coating, fillers · a mild surfactant and the base of syndet bars: it cleanses at a skin-close acidity, unlike soap. The foam is dense and creamy.
  • DISODIUM LAURETH SULFOSUCCINATE base: coating, fillers · a mild anionic surfactant: it foams almost like the sulfates but is tolerated far better. Common in baby products.
  • DISODIUM COCOAMPHODIACETATE base: coating, fillers · an amphoteric surfactant of baby and very mild products: it cleanses less strongly than the sulfates and irritates the eyes less.
  • GLYCERIN base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • CETEARETH-60 MYRISTYL GLYCOL base: coating, fillers · keeps the water and oil parts from separating
  • ACRYLATES COPOLYMER base: coating, fillers · an ingredient from the European cosmetic ingredient inventory; what exactly it does in this product is not described here yet
  • PENTYLENE GLYCOL base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • BLUE 1 (CI 42090 base: coating, fillers · give the product its colour; do not affect how it works
  • CAMPHOR questions · a warming and cooling ingredient of rubs. It irritates sensitive skin, and camphor products are not applied to a baby face or chest: the vapour is dangerous for breathing.
  • CITRIC ACID base: coating, fillers · acidity regulator
  • COCONUT ACID base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • ECHINACEA ANGUSTIFOLIA ROOT EXTRACT works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: echinacea root extract
  • EUCALYPTUS GLOBULUS EXTRACT base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • FRAGRANCE (PARFUM questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • GLYCOL STEARATE base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • GREEN 5 (CI 61570 base: coating, fillers · gives colour to the product or the skin
  • GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL base: coating, fillers · a light emollient oil rich in linoleic acid (in tablets — a coating component); does not clog pores
  • LAURETH-3 base: coating, fillers · cleanse and bind water with oils; milder than the sulfate ones
  • LIMONENE questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • MALEIC ACID base: coating, fillers · keeps the acidity of the product within the right range
  • MENTHA VIRIDIS (SPEARMINT) LEAF OIL (MENTHA VIRIDIS LEAF OIL base: coating, fillers · tightens the skin slightly, so pores look smaller
  • MENTHOL questions · gives a cooling sensation and mild numbing. It irritates sensitive skin and mucous membranes, and it worsens redness in rosacea.
  • PANTHENOL works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: panthenol
  • PANTOLACTONE base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • POTASSIUM SORBATE base: coating, fillers · a mild preservative against mould and yeast: used both in cosmetics and in foods and supplements (E202).
  • SODIUM BENZOATE base: coating, fillers · a preservative both in cosmetics and in supplements: a salt of benzoic acid that works in an acidic medium. Permitted as food additive E211 and in cosmetics up to 0.5 %.
  • SODIUM CHLORIDE base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • SODIUM HYDROXIDE base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • TOCOPHEROL base: coating, fillers · vitamin E at hundredths of a percent: keeps the oils of the formula (a cream or a capsule fill) from going rancid; at that share it protects the product, it is not vitamin E as an active
  • TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE base: coating, fillers · bind hard-water metals so the formula stays stable and the foam works

René Furterer Astera Fresh Soothing Shampoo is a product whose active ingredient is echinacea extract + panthenol (pro-vitamin b5). The concentration is not declared and the active sits after the 1 % line — more for the label than for the effect. There is no evidence of effect: echinacea extract. The effect is moderately supported: panthenol (pro-vitamin b5). The formula has 32 ingredients, 2 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: CAMPHOR (a warming and cooling ingredient of rubs. It irritates sensitive skin, and camphor products are not applied to a baby face or chest: the vapour is dangerous for breathing.); FRAGRANCE (PARFUM, LIMONENE (the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works); MENTHOL. A sensitive scalp needs two things: a mild cleansing base without harsh sulfates and fragrance, and a soothing ingredient — panthenol, allantoin or bisabolol. Itching and tightness ease within 1–2 weeks; if not, the cause is the skin (dermatitis, psoriasis), not the shampoo, and a doctor is needed. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, colour-treated hair. pregnancy, sensitive skin, children, atopic skin, rosacea — ask a doctor. Asteraceae allergy, babies, fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: on the scalp, massage in; in a shampoo — leave on for 2 minutes. When to expect an effect: do not expect a separate effect from echinacea. Label score — 6.0 out of 10 (no proven effect when applied: echinacea extract; for “sensitive scalp” — 36 %; below threshold: panthenol (pro-vitamin b5); a narrow formula for one purpose; mild surfactants: decyl glucoside, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, mild surfactants and emulsifiers; irritation potential of the base — 19 % of sls; rinse-off product; debatable groups: camphor, menthol, fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)). Per the pack: for external use, avoid contact with the eyes. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Who it does not suit

  • Asteraceae allergyechinacea belongs to the Asteraceae family, like ragweed and mugwort: a cross-reaction is possible if you are allergic to those
  • babiesthe vapour is dangerous for a baby breathing
  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

Per the maker's leaflet: Per the pack: for external use, avoid contact with the eyes. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Is this product right for your hair?

The score describes the formula, not your hair: a sulfate shampoo suits an oily scalp and fails a dry, sensitive one. Tell us about your hair, scalp and the problem — shedding, dandruff, oiliness, dryness — and we will build a routine and say whether this product suits you.

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