Formula · 4.8

Brand · 4.3

Рецепты бабушки Агафьи · hydrolysed wheat protein + burdock oil · Russia

Agafia Staroaltayskaya Hair Mask-Balm

Agafia Staroaltayskaya Hair Mask-Balm
4.8

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.2No proven effect when applied: burdock root extract, nettle extract
  • Completeness for the purpose0.5For “dry and damaged hair” — 53 %; without coconut oil — the only oil proven to reduce protein loss; could be added without conflict: coconut oil; a narrow formula for one purpose
  • Tolerance0.9Rinse-off product; debatable groups: benzyl alcohol, fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)
  • adults
  • children
  • colour-treated hair
  • pregnancyno studies in pregnancy — discuss with a doctor
  • gluten-freethis is a wheat protein — if you avoid wheat, choose another protein
  • sensitive skinirritation possible
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Damaged hair is helped on two fronts: oils that penetrate the shaft (only coconut oil is proven) and a film on the outside — silicones, panthenol, hydrolysed proteins. One from each front is enough; “collagen” and “biotin” in a shampoo work only on the label.
When:
  • when washing, rinsed off
in a mask or conditioner after washing, along the length
When to expect an effect: smoothness — immediately, until the next wash; softer hair — right after the first use; do not count on an effect on shedding; do not expect a separate effect from nettle
What is normal: the oil rinses off with difficulty: fine hair can feel greasy afterwards; losing 50–100 hairs a day is normal with or without any product

Ingredients — 20 components · 3 work

What works: 3 of 20 ingredients: hydrolysed wheat protein, burdock root extract, nettle extract. Damaged hair is helped on two fronts: oils that penetrate the shaft (only coconut oil is proven) and a film on the outside — silicones, panthenol, hydrolysed proteins. One from each front is enough; “collagen” and “biotin” in a shampoo work only on the label.

Strengths: tolerance

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: no proven effect when applied: burdock root extract, nettle extract; completeness for the purpose: for “dry and damaged hair” — 53 %

Questions: benzyl alcohol — a preservative and solvent permitted in the EU up to 1 %. It is also on the list of 26 fragrance allergens that must be declared separately, which matters to people allergic to fragrance.; fragrance and its allergens: fragrance — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

  • Aqua base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Cetearyl Alcohol base: coating, fillers · a fatty-alcohol blend (C16–C18), an emulsifier and thickener, does not dry the skin; paired with ceteareth-20 — 4 of 5; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • Behentrimonium Chloride base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Quaternium-91 base: coating, fillers · makes hair softer and easier to comb
  • Cetrimonium Methosulfate base: coating, fillers · holds back the growth of bacteria and fungi
  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: wheat protein hydrolysate
  • Arctium Lappa Root Oil works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: burdock root extract
  • Centaurium Erythraea Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Acorus Calamus Root Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Humulus Lupulus Cone Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Urtica Dioica Extract works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: nettle extract
  • Robinia Pseudoacacia Flower Extract base: coating, fillers · gives skin or hair a feeling of vigour
  • Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Benzyl Alcohol questions · a preservative and solvent permitted in the EU up to 1 %. It is also on the list of 26 fragrance allergens that must be declared separately, which matters to people allergic to fragrance.
  • Benzoic Acid base: coating, fillers · protect the product from bacteria and mould; used within the EU-permitted concentrations
  • Sorbic Acid base: coating, fillers · stops bacteria and mould growing in the jar
  • Parfum questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Citric Acid base: coating, fillers · acidity regulator
  • Beta Vulgaris base: coating, fillers · gives colour to the product or the skin
  • Maltodextrin base: coating, fillers · carbohydrate filler
  • Caramel base: coating, fillers · give the product its colour; do not affect how it works

Agafia Staroaltayskaya Hair Mask-Balm is a product whose active ingredient is hydrolysed wheat protein + burdock root extract + nettle extract. The concentration is not declared, but the active sits above the 1 % line in the list — a working share is likely. There is little evidence of effect: hydrolysed wheat protein. There is no evidence of effect: burdock root extract, nettle extract. The formula has 20 ingredients, 3 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Benzyl Alcohol (a preservative and solvent permitted in the EU up to 1 %. It is also on the list of 26 fragrance allergens that must be declared separately, which matters to people allergic to fragrance.); Parfum (the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works). Damaged hair is helped on two fronts: oils that penetrate the shaft (only coconut oil is proven) and a film on the outside — silicones, panthenol, hydrolysed proteins. One from each front is enough; “collagen” and “biotin” in a shampoo work only on the label. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, children, colour-treated hair. pregnancy, gluten-free, sensitive skin, atopic skin — ask a doctor. wheat allergy, Asteraceae allergy, fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: in a mask or conditioner after washing, along the length. When to expect an effect: smoothness — immediately, until the next wash. Label score — 4.8 out of 10 (no proven effect when applied: burdock root extract, nettle extract; for “dry and damaged hair” — 53 %; without coconut oil — the only oil proven to reduce protein loss; could be added without conflict: coconut oil; a narrow formula for one purpose; rinse-off product; debatable groups: benzyl alcohol, fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)). Per the pack: for external use, avoid contact with the eyes. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Who it does not suit

  • wheat allergyhives and anaphylaxis to hydrolysed wheat in cosmetics are described
  • Asteraceae allergyburdock belongs to the Asteraceae family, like ragweed and mugwort: a cross-reaction is possible if you are allergic to those
  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

When to stop: itching, rash, swollen lips or eyelids — stop and see a doctor

Per the maker's leaflet: Per the pack: for external use, avoid contact with the eyes. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Is this product right for your hair?

The score describes the formula, not your hair: a sulfate shampoo suits an oily scalp and fails a dry, sensitive one. Tell us about your hair, scalp and the problem — shedding, dandruff, oiliness, dryness — and we will build a routine and say whether this product suits you.

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