Formula · 5.2

Brand · 6.7

ARAVIA Laboratories · azelaic acid 5% · Russia

ARAVIA Laboratories Azelaic Correcting Cream

ARAVIA Laboratories Azelaic Correcting Cream
5.2

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.9Actives with strong evidence: 1 of 2
  • Active concentration0.5Declared concentration of azelaic acid; the rest — by position in the list
  • Completeness for the purpose0.2For “acne and blackheads” — 19 %; without a BHA (salicylic acid) that clears pores from inside; without a retinoid — the main tool against new plugs; without benzoyl peroxide — the best-proven agent against acne bacteria; could be added without conflict: retinoid, benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid (bha); below threshold: azelaic acid; a broad formula across 5 purposes
  • Tolerance0.9Debatable ingredient groups: fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)
  • adults
  • pregnancyallowed per the leaflet
  • children
  • sensitive skinstinging for the first 1–2 weeks
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Acne products work on four fronts: dissolve plugs (acids), calm inflammation (azelaic acid, niacinamide, zinc), kill bacteria (benzoyl peroxide, tea tree) and prevent new plugs (a retinoid). One active per front is enough; two or three different fronts work noticeably better.
When:
  • leave-on
  • morning
  • evening
morning and evening, fine with SPF
When to expect an effect: acne — 4–8 weeks, spots — 8–12; soothing and less tightness — within days
What is normal: stinging and mild redness at the start

Ingredients — 8 components · 2 work

What works: 2 of 8 ingredients: azelaic acid, allantoin. Acne products work on four fronts: dissolve plugs (acids), calm inflammation (azelaic acid, niacinamide, zinc), kill bacteria (benzoyl peroxide, tea tree) and prevent new plugs (a retinoid). One active per front is enough; two or three different fronts work noticeably better.

Strengths: actives and evidence, tolerance

What lowers the score: active concentration: declared concentration of azelaic acid; completeness for the purpose: for “acne and blackheads” — 19 %

Questions: fragrance and its allergens: perfume — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

  • Aqua base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Isopentyldiol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Polyquaternium-37 base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Azelaic Acid works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: azelaic acid
  • Triethanolamine base: coating, fillers · a pH adjuster and thickener neutraliser; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • Allantoin works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: allantoin
  • Phenoxyethanol base: coating, fillers · the most widespread cosmetic preservative: it keeps the product sterile. Permitted in the EU up to 1 %, recognised as safe at that level.
  • Ethylhexylglycerin base: coating, fillers · a preservative booster and skin-conditioning ingredient: it barely preserves on its own but helps phenoxyethanol work and lowers the amount needed.
  • Perfume questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

ARAVIA Laboratories Azelaic Correcting Cream is a product whose active ingredient is azelaic acid + allantoin at a declared 5 %. The effect is supported by studies: azelaic acid. The effect is moderately supported: allantoin. The formula has 8 ingredients, 2 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Perfume (the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works). Acne products work on four fronts: dissolve plugs (acids), calm inflammation (azelaic acid, niacinamide, zinc), kill bacteria (benzoyl peroxide, tea tree) and prevent new plugs (a retinoid). One active per front is enough; two or three different fronts work noticeably better. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, pregnancy, children. sensitive skin, atopic skin — ask a doctor. fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: morning and evening, fine with SPF. When to expect an effect: acne — 4–8 weeks, spots — 8–12. Label score — 5.2 out of 10 (actives with strong evidence: 1 of 2; declared concentration of azelaic acid; the rest — by position in the list; for “acne and blackheads” — 19 %; without a bha (salicylic acid) that clears pores from inside; without a retinoid — the main tool against new plugs; without benzoyl peroxide — the best-proven agent against acne bacteria; could be added without conflict: retinoid, benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid (bha); below threshold: azelaic acid; a broad formula across 5 purposes; debatable ingredient groups: fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)). Azelaic acid can sting and dry in the first weeks; sun protection is required in the daytime afterwards.

Who it does not suit

  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

When to stop: persistent burning — stop

Per the maker's leaflet: Azelaic acid can sting and dry in the first weeks; sun protection is required in the daytime afterwards.

Is this product right for your skin?

The score describes the formula, not your skin: the same product dries one person and saves another. Describe your skin type, reactions and goals, attach a photo of the ingredient list or the product — we will go through every ingredient and say whether it suits you, what to pair it with and what to avoid.

Cosmetic ingredient checkDecode my tests

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