Formula · 8.7

Brand · 8.3

The Ordinary · azelaic acid 10% · Canada

The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%

The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
8.7

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence1.0Effect supported by studies
  • Active concentration1.0Concentration within the working range
  • Completeness for the purpose0.6For “dark spots and uneven tone” — 57 %; retinoid; glycolic acid; could be added without conflict: retinoid, glycolic acid; a formula with one main purpose
  • Tolerance1.0No ingredients from irritant or allergen lists
  • adults
  • pregnancyallowed per the leaflet
  • sensitive skinstinging for the first 1–2 weeks
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • fragrance · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “fragrance and its allergens” group — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Against dark spots you need two fronts: actives that slow pigment production (azelaic and tranexamic acids, niacinamide, vitamin C, arbutin, thiamidol) and those that speed up skin renewal (a retinoid, acids). One active per front is enough; better both fronts and SPF in the daytime.
When:
  • leave-on
  • morning
  • evening
morning and evening, fine with SPF
When to expect an effect: acne — 4–8 weeks, spots — 8–12
What is normal: stinging and mild redness at the start

Ingredients — 16 components · 1 works

What works: 1 of 16 ingredients: azelaic acid. Against dark spots you need two fronts: actives that slow pigment production (azelaic and tranexamic acids, niacinamide, vitamin C, arbutin, thiamidol) and those that speed up skin renewal (a retinoid, acids). One active per front is enough; better both fronts and SPF in the daytime.

Strengths: actives and evidence, active concentration, tolerance

What lowers the score: completeness for the purpose: for “dark spots and uneven tone” — 57 %

Questions: no debatable ingredients in the formula

  • Aqua (Water base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Isodecyl Neopentanoate base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • Dimethicone base: coating, fillers · form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • Azelaic Acid works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: azelaic acid
  • Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer base: coating, fillers · form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Polysilicone-11 base: coating, fillers · leaves a thin film on skin or hair
  • Isohexadecane base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Tocopherol base: coating, fillers · vitamin E at hundredths of a percent: keeps the oils of the formula (a cream or a capsule fill) from going rancid; at that share it protects the product, it is not vitamin E as an active
  • Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate base: coating, fillers · bind hard-water metals so the formula stays stable and the foam works
  • Isoceteth-20 base: coating, fillers · cleanse and bind water with oils; milder than the sulfate ones
  • Polysorbate 60 base: coating, fillers · cleanse and bind water with oils; milder than the sulfate ones
  • Triethanolamine base: coating, fillers · a pH adjuster and thickener neutraliser; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • Ethoxydiglycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Phenoxyethanol base: coating, fillers · the most widespread cosmetic preservative: it keeps the product sterile. Permitted in the EU up to 1 %, recognised as safe at that level.
  • Chlorphenesin base: coating, fillers · a preservative, usually paired with phenoxyethanol. Permitted in the EU up to 0.3 %.

The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% is a product whose active ingredient is azelaic acid at a declared 10 %. The effect is supported by studies: 10–20 %: acne, rosacea and dark spots — several RCTs, a meta-analysis against hydroquinone in melasma. The formula has 16 ingredients, 1 of which does the work; the rest is the formula base. Against dark spots you need two fronts: actives that slow pigment production (azelaic and tranexamic acids, niacinamide, vitamin C, arbutin, thiamidol) and those that speed up skin renewal (a retinoid, acids). One active per front is enough; better both fronts and SPF in the daytime. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), fragrance, parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, pregnancy. sensitive skin — ask a doctor. Use: morning and evening, fine with SPF. When to expect an effect: acne — 4–8 weeks, spots — 8–12. Label score — 8.7 out of 10 (for “dark spots and uneven tone” — 57 %; retinoid; glycolic acid; could be added without conflict: retinoid, glycolic acid; a formula with one main purpose).

Who it does not suit

When to stop: persistent burning — stop

Is this product right for your skin?

The score describes the formula, not your skin: the same product dries one person and saves another. Describe your skin type, reactions and goals, attach a photo of the ingredient list or the product — we will go through every ingredient and say whether it suits you, what to pair it with and what to avoid.

Cosmetic ingredient checkDecode my tests

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