Formula · 8.9

Brand · 7.7

Anua · azelaic acid 10% · South Korea

Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum

Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum
8.9

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.7Actives with strong evidence: 3 of 12
  • Active concentration1.0After the 1 % line: betaine salicylate (bha), niacinamide (vitamin b3), squalane, panthenol (pro-vitamin b5), licorice extract, aloe vera — the concentration is likely token
  • Completeness for the purpose1.0For “sensitive skin and redness” — 100 %; below threshold: madecassoside (centella), ceramides; a broad formula across 4 purposes
  • Tolerance1.0No ingredients from irritant or allergen lists
  • adults
  • oily skin
  • acne-prone
  • atopic skin
  • dry skin
  • children
  • babies
  • pregnancysalicylates — ask a doctor
  • sensitive skinstinging for the first 1–2 weeks
  • rosaceaask a dermatologist
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • fragrance · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “fragrance and its allergens” group — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Sensitive skin needs soothing ingredients (panthenol, allantoin, bisabolol, centella, oatmeal, ectoin) and barrier ones (zinc oxide, ceramides, niacinamide) — one from each group — and as few irritants as possible: fragrance, alcohol, acids.
When:
  • leave-on
  • morning
  • evening
morning and evening, fine with SPF
When to expect an effect: acne — 4–8 weeks, spots — 8–12; blackheads, pores — 4–8 weeks; tone, pores — 4–8 weeks; sebum — 2–4; redness — days; hydration — days; wrinkles — 8 weeks, a modest effect; softness — right away; dryness — 1–2 weeks; sebum, shine — 2–4 weeks; soothing — days; barrier — 2–4 weeks; soothing and less tightness — within days; redness, itching — 1–2 weeks; spots — 8–12 weeks, if at all; barrier, dryness — 2–4 weeks; hydration — right away; calming of irritation — 1–2 weeks
What is normal: stinging and mild redness at the start; mild dryness; mild flushing in the first days at high concentration; nothing special — well tolerated

Ingredients — 28 components · 12 work

What works: 12 of 28 ingredients: azelaic acid, betaine salicylate, niacinamide and 9 more. Sensitive skin needs soothing ingredients (panthenol, allantoin, bisabolol, centella, oatmeal, ectoin) and barrier ones (zinc oxide, ceramides, niacinamide) — one from each group — and as few irritants as possible: fragrance, alcohol, acids.

Strengths: active concentration, completeness for the purpose, tolerance

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: actives with strong evidence: 3 of 12

Questions: no debatable ingredients in the formula

  • Ceramides + skin-identical components — reinforce each otherceramides with cholesterol and fatty acids restore the barrier better than alone
  • Niacinamide (vitamin B3) + Azelaic acid — reinforce each otherboth act against spots and inflammation by different routes
  • Niacinamide (vitamin B3) + Ceramides — reinforce each otherniacinamide boosts the skin own ceramide production, added ceramides rebuild the barrier from outside
  • Niacinamide (vitamin B3) + Zinc PCA — reinforce each otherboth reduce sebum and inflammation — a classic pair for oily skin
  • Water base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Azelaic Acid works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: azelaic acid
  • Propylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Sodium Hydroxide base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Dipropylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • 1,2-Hexanediol base: coating, fillers · a solvent and humectant with antimicrobial action: it helps the product keep without classic preservatives.
  • Panthenol works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: panthenol
  • Hydroxyethylcellulose base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Betaine Salicylate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: BHA acid
  • Glycerin base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • Biosaccharide Gum-1 base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Ethylhexylglycerin base: coating, fillers · a preservative booster and skin-conditioning ingredient: it barely preserves on its own but helps phenoxyethanol work and lowers the amount needed.
  • Allantoin works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: allantoin
  • Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: dipotassium glycyrrhizate
  • Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Sodium Hyaluronate label wording · an allergen (sodium (salt)) — matters when limiting salt, for example with blood pressure; the label says it is absent
  • Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Niacinamide works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: niacinamide
  • Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: aloe gel
  • Beta-Glucan works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: beta-glucan (oat, yeast)
  • Centella Asiatica Extract works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: madecassoside
  • Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: madecassoside
  • Centella Asiatica Root Extract works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: madecassoside
  • Madecassoside works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: madecassoside
  • Asiaticoside works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: madecassoside
  • Asiatic Acid works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: madecassoside
  • Madecassic Acid works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: madecassoside
  • Squalane works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: squalane (saturated, from olive or sugarcane)
  • Zinc PCA works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: zinc PCA
  • Butylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · a humectant and solvent: it makes the texture lighter and helps actives spread. Better tolerated than propylene glycol.
  • Pentylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside base: coating, fillers · washes oil and dirt off skin or hair
  • Hydrogenated Lecithin base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Ceramide NP works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: ceramides NP, AP, EOP

Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum is a product whose active ingredient is azelaic acid + betaine salicylate (bha) + niacinamide (vitamin b3) + madecassoside (centella) at a declared 10 %. The effect is supported by studies: azelaic acid, niacinamide (vitamin b3), ceramides. The effect is moderately supported: betaine salicylate (bha), madecassoside (centella), zinc pca, panthenol (pro-vitamin b5), allantoin. There is little evidence of effect: beta-glucan, squalane, licorice extract, aloe vera. The formula has 28 ingredients, 12 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Well-matched pairs in the formula: ceramides + skin-identical components; niacinamide (vitamin b3) + azelaic acid; niacinamide (vitamin b3) + ceramides; niacinamide (vitamin b3) + zinc pca. Sensitive skin needs soothing ingredients (panthenol, allantoin, bisabolol, centella, oatmeal, ectoin) and barrier ones (zinc oxide, ceramides, niacinamide) — one from each group — and as few irritants as possible: fragrance, alcohol, acids. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), fragrance, parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, oily skin, acne-prone, atopic skin, dry skin, children, babies. pregnancy, sensitive skin, rosacea — ask a doctor. Use: morning and evening, fine with SPF. When to expect an effect: acne — 4–8 weeks, spots — 8–12. Label score — 8.9 out of 10 (actives with strong evidence: 3 of 12; after the 1 % line: betaine salicylate (bha), niacinamide (vitamin b3), squalane, panthenol (pro-vitamin b5), licorice extract, aloe vera — the concentration is likely token). The brand states: sun protection is required in the daytime afterwards.

Who it does not suit

When to stop: persistent burning — stop; burning — stop; itching, rash — stop; new comedones — stop; tightness, flaking — use less often or stop

Per the maker's leaflet: The brand states: sun protection is required in the daytime afterwards.

Is this product right for your skin?

The score describes the formula, not your skin: the same product dries one person and saves another. Describe your skin type, reactions and goals, attach a photo of the ingredient list or the product — we will go through every ingredient and say whether it suits you, what to pair it with and what to avoid.

Cosmetic ingredient checkDecode my tests

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