Formula · 8.4

Brand · 7.9

SOME BY MI · retinol 0.1% · South Korea

SOME BY MI Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum

SOME BY MI Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum
8.4

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.7Actives with strong evidence: 3 of 11
  • Active concentration1.0After the 1 % line: signal peptides, resveratrol — the concentration is likely token
  • Completeness for the purpose1.0For “wrinkles and firmness” — 100 %; without vitamin C, which guards against free radicals and is needed for collagen; glycolic acid; could be added without conflict: vitamin c; below threshold: niacinamide (vitamin b3), adenosine; a formula with one main purpose
  • Tolerance0.8Debatable ingredient groups: BHT and BHA (antioxidants), fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)
  • adults
  • oily skin
  • dry skin
  • children
  • babies
  • breastfeedingask a doctor
  • sensitive skinstart low
  • rosaceaask a dermatologist
  • before sunSPF is a must in the daytime
  • acne-pronemay clog pores in leave-on face products
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Against wrinkles the proven actives are retinoids (or bakuchiol), vitamin C with antioxidants and acids: they speed up skin renewal and stimulate collagen. Peptides and hydration are an add-on that smooths for a while.
When:
  • leave-on
  • at night
at night; start twice a week, SPF in the daytime
When to expect an effect: wrinkles, tone — 8–12 weeks; acne — 6–8; tone, pores — 4–8 weeks; sebum — 2–4; wrinkles, spots — 12 weeks; wrinkles — 8 weeks, a modest effect; redness — days; hydration — days; wrinkles — 8 weeks, a modest effect; redness, itching — 1–2 weeks; spots — 8–12 weeks, if at all; wrinkles — 8–12 weeks, a modest effect; barrier, dryness — 2–4 weeks; no measured timeline for skin: human studies are very few; soothing — days; barrier — 2–4 weeks
What is normal: flaking, dryness, mild redness for 2–4 weeks (retinisation); mild flushing in the first days at high concentration; nothing special — well tolerated

Ingredients — 55 components · 11 work

What works: 11 of 55 ingredients: retinoid, niacinamide, bakuchiol and 8 more. Against wrinkles the proven actives are retinoids (or bakuchiol), vitamin C with antioxidants and acids: they speed up skin renewal and stimulate collagen. Peptides and hydration are an add-on that smooths for a while.

Strengths: active concentration, completeness for the purpose

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: actives with strong evidence: 3 of 11; tolerance: debatable ingredient groups: bht and bha, fragrance and its allergens

Questions: BHT and BHA (antioxidants): bht — antioxidants that keep oils from going rancid: hundredths of a percent in cosmetics, and E321 and E320 in supplements. A frequent buyer question, with no proven harm at these levels.; fragrance and its allergens: fragrance — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

  • Retinoid + Bakuchiol — reinforce each otherbakuchiol softens retinoid irritation with a similar action
  • Ceramides + skin-identical components — reinforce each otherceramides with cholesterol and fatty acids restore the barrier better than alone
  • Niacinamide (vitamin B3) + Ceramides — reinforce each otherniacinamide boosts the skin own ceramide production, added ceramides rebuild the barrier from outside
  • Retinoid + Ceramides — reinforce each othera ceramide cream alongside a retinoid markedly reduces the dryness and flaking of the first weeks without blunting its effect
  • Retinoid + Niacinamide (vitamin B3) — reinforce each otherniacinamide strengthens the barrier and reduces retinoid irritation
  • Retinoid + Signal peptides — reinforce each othera retinoid and peptides act by different routes and do not interfere; reinforcement is shown in small studies
  • Water base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Cyclohexasiloxane base: coating, fillers · form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • Dicaprylyl Carbonate base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Glycerin base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • Methylpropanediol base: coating, fillers · dissolves the other ingredients and holds the formula together
  • 1,2-Hexanediol base: coating, fillers · a solvent and humectant with antimicrobial action: it helps the product keep without classic preservatives.
  • Niacinamide works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: niacinamide
  • Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • Panthenol works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: panthenol
  • Tocopheryl Acetate base: coating, fillers · vitamin E at hundredths of a percent: keeps the oils of the formula (a cream or a capsule fill) from going rancid; at that share it protects the product, it is not vitamin E as an active
  • Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Centella Asiatica Extract works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: madecassoside
  • Panax Ginseng Berry Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: licorice root extract
  • Ficus Carica (Fig) Fruit Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: madecassoside
  • Centella Asiatica Root Extract works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: madecassoside
  • Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • Artemisia Capillaris Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Eclipta Prostrata Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil base: coating, fillers · the plant base: emollient oils, waxes and care extracts
  • Hydrogenated Lecithin base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Glyceryl Stearate base: coating, fillers · the basic cream emulsifier (neutral NSE form); the self-emulsifying SE form with added potassium stearate is a separate entry, 3 of 5; does not clog pores
  • Bakuchiol works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: bakuchiol
  • Palmitic Acid base: coating, fillers · a fatty acid (C16), a thickener and soap component; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • Sodium Polyacrylate label wording · an allergen (sodium (salt)) — matters when limiting salt, for example with blood pressure; the label says it is absent
  • Stearic Acid base: coating, fillers · in tablets — a pressing lubricant, in creams — a thickener and soap component; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • Xanthan Gum base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Retinol (0.1% works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: retinol
  • Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Butylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · a humectant and solvent: it makes the texture lighter and helps actives spread. Better tolerated than propylene glycol.
  • Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: licorice root extract
  • Adenosine works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: adenosine
  • Tromethamine base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Polyquaternium-51 base: coating, fillers · leaves a thin film on skin or hair
  • Beta-Glucan works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: beta-glucan (oat, yeast)
  • Cetyl Alcohol base: coating, fillers · a fatty alcohol, emulsifier and thickener; does not dry the skin — not “alcohol” in the everyday sense; rarely clogs pores
  • BHT questions · antioxidants that keep oils from going rancid: hundredths of a percent in cosmetics, and E321 and E320 in supplements. A frequent buyer question, with no proven harm at these levels.
  • Collagen base: coating, fillers · raises the water content of the skin
  • Myristic Acid base: coating, fillers · a fatty acid (C14), gives dense foam in cleansers; may clog pores in leave-on face products
  • BHA base: coating, fillers · keeps the oils in the formula from going rancid
  • Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate base: coating, fillers · skin-microbiome ferments, prebiotics and formula antioxidants
  • Tocopherol base: coating, fillers · vitamin E at hundredths of a percent: keeps the oils of the formula (a cream or a capsule fill) from going rancid; at that share it protects the product, it is not vitamin E as an active
  • Bifida Ferment Lysate base: coating, fillers · skin-microbiome ferments, prebiotics and formula antioxidants
  • Ceramide NP works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: ceramides NP, AP, EOP
  • Saccharomyces Ferment base: coating, fillers · skin-microbiome ferments, prebiotics and formula antioxidants
  • Retinal works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: retinol
  • Asiaticoside works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: madecassoside
  • Glyceryl Polymethacrylate base: coating, fillers · makes the product thicker or thinner
  • Madecassoside works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: madecassoside
  • Propylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • Glycolipids base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • Glycine Soja (Soybean) Peptide base: coating, fillers · the plant base: emollient oils, waxes and care extracts
  • Resveratrol works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: resveratrol
  • Sucrose Distearate base: coating, fillers · a mild sugar-based emulsifier; does not clog pores
  • Asiatic Acid works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: madecassoside
  • Madecassic Acid works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: madecassoside
  • Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: palmitoyl tripeptide-1
  • Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil base: coating, fillers · the plant base: emollient oils, waxes and care extracts
  • PEG-100 Stearate base: coating, fillers · a highly ethoxylated emulsifier, the usual partner of glyceryl stearate; does not clog pores
  • Polysorbate 20 base: coating, fillers · cleanse and bind water with oils; milder than the sulfate ones
  • Fragrance questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Ethylhexylglycerin base: coating, fillers · a preservative booster and skin-conditioning ingredient: it barely preserves on its own but helps phenoxyethanol work and lowers the amount needed.

SOME BY MI Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum is a product whose active ingredient is retinoid + niacinamide (vitamin b3) + bakuchiol + adenosine at a declared 0.1 %. The effect is supported by studies: retinoid, niacinamide (vitamin b3), ceramides. The effect is moderately supported: bakuchiol, madecassoside (centella), panthenol (pro-vitamin b5). There is little evidence of effect: adenosine, beta-glucan, licorice extract, signal peptides, resveratrol. The formula has 55 ingredients, 11 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: BHT (antioxidants that keep oils from going rancid: hundredths of a percent in cosmetics, and E321 and E320 in supplements. A frequent buyer question, with no proven harm at these levels.); Fragrance (the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works). Well-matched pairs in the formula: retinoid + bakuchiol; ceramides + skin-identical components; niacinamide (vitamin b3) + ceramides; retinoid + ceramides; retinoid + niacinamide (vitamin b3); retinoid + signal peptides. Against wrinkles the proven actives are retinoids (or bakuchiol), vitamin C with antioxidants and acids: they speed up skin renewal and stimulate collagen. Peptides and hydration are an add-on that smooths for a while. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, oily skin, dry skin, children, babies. breastfeeding, sensitive skin, rosacea, before sun, acne-prone, atopic skin — ask a doctor. pregnancy, fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: at night; start twice a week, SPF in the daytime. When to expect an effect: wrinkles, tone — 8–12 weeks; acne — 6–8. Label score — 8.4 out of 10 (actives with strong evidence: 3 of 11; after the 1 % line: signal peptides, resveratrol — the concentration is likely token; debatable ingredient groups: bht and bha (antioxidants), fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)). Retinoids are not used during pregnancy; sun protection is required in the daytime afterwards.

Who it does not suit

  • pregnancydo not use
  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

When to stop: strong burning, swelling — stop; persistent burning — stop; itching, rash — stop; itching, redness — stop

Per the maker's leaflet: Retinoids are not used during pregnancy; sun protection is required in the daytime afterwards.

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