Formula · 8.3

Brand · 8.3

MEDI-PEEL · retinal and niacinamide · South Korea

MEDI-PEEL Retinal NMN Bounce Shot Booster

MEDI-PEEL Retinal NMN Bounce Shot Booster
8.3

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.7Actives with strong evidence: 1 of 6
  • Active concentration1.0After the 1 % line: bakuchiol — the concentration is likely token
  • Completeness for the purpose0.9For “wrinkles and firmness” — 87 %; without vitamin C, which guards against free radicals and is needed for collagen; glycolic acid; could be added without conflict: vitamin c; below threshold: retinoid, niacinamide (vitamin b3), adenosine; a broad formula across 3 purposes
  • Tolerance0.9Debatable ingredient groups: fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)
  • adults
  • oily skin
  • acne-prone
  • dry skin
  • breastfeedingask a doctor
  • sensitive skinstart low
  • rosaceaask a dermatologist
  • before sunSPF is a must in the daytime
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Against wrinkles the proven actives are retinoids (or bakuchiol), vitamin C with antioxidants and acids: they speed up skin renewal and stimulate collagen. Peptides and hydration are an add-on that smooths for a while.
When:
  • leave-on
  • at night
at night; start twice a week, SPF in the daytime
When to expect an effect: wrinkles, tone — 8–12 weeks; acne — 6–8; tone, pores — 4–8 weeks; sebum — 2–4; hydration — immediately; lasting effect — 2–4 weeks; wrinkles, spots — 12 weeks; wrinkles — 8 weeks, a modest effect; softness — right away; dryness — 1–2 weeks
What is normal: flaking, dryness, mild redness for 2–4 weeks (retinisation); mild flushing in the first days at high concentration; nothing special — well tolerated

Ingredients — 61 component · 6 work

What works: 6 of 61 ingredients: retinoid, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and 3 more. Against wrinkles the proven actives are retinoids (or bakuchiol), vitamin C with antioxidants and acids: they speed up skin renewal and stimulate collagen. Peptides and hydration are an add-on that smooths for a while.

Strengths: active concentration, completeness for the purpose, tolerance

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: actives with strong evidence: 1 of 6

Questions: fragrance and its allergens: fragrance, benzyl salicylate, linalool — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

  • Retinoid + Bakuchiol — reinforce each otherbakuchiol softens retinoid irritation with a similar action
  • Retinoid + Niacinamide (vitamin B3) — reinforce each otherniacinamide strengthens the barrier and reduces retinoid irritation
  • Water/Aqua base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Propanediol base: coating, fillers · a humectant and solvent from corn sugar: it holds water and helps actives dissolve. A gentler replacement for propylene glycol.
  • Butylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · a humectant and solvent: it makes the texture lighter and helps actives spread. Better tolerated than propylene glycol.
  • Glycerin base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • Glycereth-26 base: coating, fillers · an ethoxylated glycerin, a humectant; does not clog pores
  • 1,2-Hexanediol base: coating, fillers · a solvent and humectant with antimicrobial action: it helps the product keep without classic preservatives.
  • Niacinamide works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: niacinamide
  • Isoamyl Laurate base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • Squalane works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: squalane (saturated, from olive or sugarcane)
  • Cetyl Palmitate base: coating, fillers · a wax ester, a thickener and emollient; does not clog pores
  • Cetearyl Olivate base: coating, fillers · makes hair softer and easier to comb
  • Glyceryl Stearate base: coating, fillers · the basic cream emulsifier (neutral NSE form); the self-emulsifying SE form with added potassium stearate is a separate entry, 3 of 5; does not clog pores
  • Hyaluronic Acid works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate
  • Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate
  • Sodium Hyaluronate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate
  • Sorbitan Olivate base: coating, fillers · keeps the water and oil parts from separating
  • Pentylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Carbomer base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Betaine base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Tromethamine base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride base: coating, fillers · a coconut-oil fraction, a light emollient and carrier of actives; does not clog pores
  • Tocopherol base: coating, fillers · vitamin E at hundredths of a percent: keeps the oils of the formula (a cream or a capsule fill) from going rancid; at that share it protects the product, it is not vitamin E as an active
  • Methylpropanediol base: coating, fillers · dissolves the other ingredients and holds the formula together
  • Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • Retinal works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: retinal (retinaldehyde)
  • Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • Lecithin base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • Inulin Lauryl Carbamate base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Caprylyl Glycol base: coating, fillers · a humectant that also holds bacteria back, which is why it often replaces part of the preservative.
  • Adenosine works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: adenosine
  • Sodium Polyacrylate label wording · an allergen (sodium (salt)) — matters when limiting salt, for example with blood pressure; the label says it is absent
  • Xanthan Gum base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • Disodium EDTA base: coating, fillers · bind hard-water metals so the formula stays stable and the foam works
  • Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • Cholesterol base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • Polyglutamic Acid base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • Erythritol base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate
  • Camellia Japonica Flower Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • Nicotinamide Mononucleotide base: coating, fillers · keeps the oils in the formula from going rancid
  • Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate base: coating, fillers · a synthetic formula antioxidant: protects the oils and actives from oxidation; hundredths of a percent, no action on the skin
  • Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Hydrogenated Lecithin base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Potassium Cetyl Phosphate base: coating, fillers · an anionic emulsifier: keeps oil and water together in light creams and sunscreens; a few percent of the product, no action on the skin
  • PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24 base: coating, fillers · coating glazing agent
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate base: coating, fillers · helps the formula stay unchanged over time
  • Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate base: coating, fillers · a light amino-acid (sarcosine) based ester emollient: gives slip without greasiness and helps dissolve oil-soluble actives; not a cleansing surfactant
  • Sodium Surfactin label wording · an allergen (sodium (salt)) — matters when limiting salt, for example with blood pressure; the label says it is absent
  • Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: retinal (retinaldehyde)
  • Bakuchiol works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: bakuchiol
  • Retinyl Acetate base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • Retinyl Retinoate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: retinal (retinaldehyde)
  • Glucosylrutin base: coating, fillers · keeps the oils in the formula from going rancid
  • Silybin base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl p-Cresol base: coating, fillers · absorbs ultraviolet light so the product itself does not spoil
  • Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate base: coating, fillers · creates a protective layer between the skin and outside irritants
  • Fragrance/Parfum questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Tetramethyl Acetyloctahydronaphthalenes base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • Benzyl Salicylate questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Hexamethylindanopyran base: coating, fillers · gives the product its scent
  • Linalool questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

MEDI-PEEL Retinal NMN Bounce Shot Booster is a product whose active ingredient is retinoid + niacinamide (vitamin b3) + hyaluronic acid + bakuchiol. The concentration is not declared; the active sits after the 1 % line, but works at small shares. The effect is moderately supported: retinoid, hyaluronic acid, bakuchiol. The effect is supported by studies: niacinamide (vitamin b3). There is little evidence of effect: adenosine, squalane. The formula has 61 ingredients, 6 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Fragrance/Parfum, Benzyl Salicylate, Linalool (the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works). Well-matched pairs in the formula: retinoid + bakuchiol; retinoid + niacinamide (vitamin b3). Against wrinkles the proven actives are retinoids (or bakuchiol), vitamin C with antioxidants and acids: they speed up skin renewal and stimulate collagen. Peptides and hydration are an add-on that smooths for a while. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, oily skin, acne-prone, dry skin. breastfeeding, sensitive skin, rosacea, before sun, atopic skin — ask a doctor. pregnancy, fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: at night; start twice a week, SPF in the daytime. When to expect an effect: wrinkles, tone — 8–12 weeks; acne — 6–8. Label score — 8.3 out of 10 (actives with strong evidence: 1 of 6; after the 1 % line: bakuchiol — the concentration is likely token; for “wrinkles and firmness” — 87 %; without vitamin c, which guards against free radicals and is needed for collagen; glycolic acid; could be added without conflict: vitamin c; below threshold: retinoid, niacinamide (vitamin b3), adenosine; a broad formula across 3 purposes; debatable ingredient groups: fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)). Vitamin A derivatives are not used in pregnancy or breastfeeding without talking to a doctor. Dryness and flaking are possible in the first weeks; sun protection is needed during the day.

Who it does not suit

  • pregnancydo not use
  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

When to stop: strong burning, swelling — stop; persistent burning — stop; tightness in dry air — apply under a cream; itching, rash — stop; new comedones — stop

Per the maker's leaflet: Vitamin A derivatives are not used in pregnancy or breastfeeding without talking to a doctor. Dryness and flaking are possible in the first weeks; sun protection is needed during the day.

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