Formula · 7.6

Brand · 8.6

Beauty of Joseon · nourishing cream · South Korea

Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream

Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream
7.6

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.7Actives with strong evidence: 2 of 5
  • Active concentration0.9Actives sit above the 1 % line — by list order a working concentration is 84 % likely
  • Completeness for the purpose0.5For “wrinkles and firmness” — 52 %; without a retinoid — the best-proven active against wrinkles; without vitamin C, which guards against free radicals and is needed for collagen; glycolic acid; could be added without conflict: retinoid, vitamin c, glycolic acid; below threshold: niacinamide (vitamin b3), adenosine; a formula with one main purpose
  • Tolerance1.0No ingredients from irritant or allergen lists
  • adults
  • pregnancyallowed per the leaflet
  • oily skin
  • acne-prone
  • dry skin
  • atopic skin
  • children
  • sensitive skinat 10 % flushing is possible
  • rosaceaask a dermatologist
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • fragrance · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “fragrance and its allergens” group — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Against wrinkles the proven actives are retinoids (or bakuchiol), vitamin C with antioxidants and acids: they speed up skin renewal and stimulate collagen. Peptides and hydration are an add-on that smooths for a while.
When:
  • leave-on
  • morning
  • evening
morning and evening, on clean skin
When to expect an effect: tone, pores — 4–8 weeks; sebum — 2–4; softness — right away; dryness — 1–2 weeks; wrinkles — 8 weeks, a modest effect; hydration — immediately; lasting effect — 2–4 weeks; barrier, dryness — 2–4 weeks
What is normal: mild flushing in the first days at high concentration; nothing special — well tolerated

Ingredients — 34 components · 5 work

What works: 5 of 34 ingredients: niacinamide, squalane, adenosine and 2 more. Against wrinkles the proven actives are retinoids (or bakuchiol), vitamin C with antioxidants and acids: they speed up skin renewal and stimulate collagen. Peptides and hydration are an add-on that smooths for a while.

Strengths: active concentration, tolerance

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: actives with strong evidence: 2 of 5; completeness for the purpose: for “wrinkles and firmness” — 52 %

Questions: no debatable ingredients in the formula

  • Ceramides + Hyaluronic acid — reinforce each otherhyaluronate draws moisture in, ceramides keep it
  • Ceramides + skin-identical components — reinforce each otherceramides with cholesterol and fatty acids restore the barrier better than alone
  • Niacinamide (vitamin B3) + Ceramides — reinforce each otherniacinamide boosts the skin own ceramide production, added ceramides rebuild the barrier from outside
  • Water base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Glycerin base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • Hydrogenated Polydecene base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • 1,2-Hexanediol base: coating, fillers · a solvent and humectant with antimicrobial action: it helps the product keep without classic preservatives.
  • Niacinamide works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: niacinamide
  • Squalane works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: squalane (saturated, from olive or sugarcane)
  • Butylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · a humectant and solvent: it makes the texture lighter and helps actives spread. Better tolerated than propylene glycol.
  • Propanediol base: coating, fillers · a humectant and solvent from corn sugar: it holds water and helps actives dissolve. A gentler replacement for propylene glycol.
  • Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Cetearyl Olivate base: coating, fillers · makes hair softer and easier to comb
  • Sorbitan Olivate base: coating, fillers · keeps the water and oil parts from separating
  • Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer base: coating, fillers · makes the product thicker or thinner
  • Xanthan Gum base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Panax Ginseng Root Water base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Tromethamine base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil base: coating, fillers · a light oil rich in linoleic acid; among the least comedogenic — does not clog pores
  • Hydrogenated Coconut Oil base: coating, fillers · the plant base: emollient oils, waxes and care extracts
  • Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Water base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Ethylhexylglycerin base: coating, fillers · a preservative booster and skin-conditioning ingredient: it barely preserves on its own but helps phenoxyethanol work and lowers the amount needed.
  • Adenosine works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: adenosine
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride base: coating, fillers · a coconut-oil fraction, a light emollient and carrier of actives; does not clog pores
  • Disodium EDTA base: coating, fillers · bind hard-water metals so the formula stays stable and the foam works
  • Hyaluronic Acid works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate
  • Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate
  • Sodium Hyaluronate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate
  • Honey Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Ceramide NP works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: ceramides NP, AP, EOP
  • Hydrogenated Lecithin base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Coptis Japonica Root Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Seed Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Extract base: coating, fillers · the plant base: emollient oils, waxes and care extracts
  • Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Dextrin base: coating, fillers · a starch breakdown product: a filler, thickener and film former; does not act
  • Phellinus Linteus Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant

Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream is a product whose active ingredient is niacinamide (vitamin b3) + squalane + adenosine + hyaluronic acid. The concentration is not declared, but the active sits above the 1 % line in the list — a working share is likely. The effect is supported by studies: niacinamide (vitamin b3), ceramides. There is little evidence of effect: squalane, adenosine. The effect is moderately supported: hyaluronic acid. The formula has 34 ingredients, 5 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Well-matched pairs in the formula: ceramides + hyaluronic acid; ceramides + skin-identical components; niacinamide (vitamin b3) + ceramides. Against wrinkles the proven actives are retinoids (or bakuchiol), vitamin C with antioxidants and acids: they speed up skin renewal and stimulate collagen. Peptides and hydration are an add-on that smooths for a while. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), fragrance, parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, pregnancy, oily skin, acne-prone, dry skin, atopic skin, children. sensitive skin, rosacea — ask a doctor. Use: morning and evening, on clean skin. When to expect an effect: tone, pores — 4–8 weeks; sebum — 2–4. Label score — 7.6 out of 10 (actives with strong evidence: 2 of 5; actives sit above the 1 % line — by list order a working concentration is 84 % likely; for “wrinkles and firmness” — 52 %; without a retinoid — the best-proven active against wrinkles; without vitamin c, which guards against free radicals and is needed for collagen; glycolic acid; could be added without conflict: retinoid, vitamin c, glycolic acid; below threshold: niacinamide (vitamin b3), adenosine; a formula with one main purpose).

Who it does not suit

When to stop: persistent burning — stop; new comedones — stop; itching, rash — stop; tightness in dry air — apply under a cream

Is this product right for your skin?

The score describes the formula, not your skin: the same product dries one person and saves another. Describe your skin type, reactions and goals, attach a photo of the ingredient list or the product — we will go through every ingredient and say whether it suits you, what to pair it with and what to avoid.

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