Formula · 8.8

Brand · 8.6

Beauty of Joseon · serum, propolis + niacinamide · South Korea

Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide

Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide
8.8

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.7Actives with strong evidence: 1 of 5
  • Active concentration1.0Actives sit above the 1 % line — by list order a working concentration is 90 % likely
  • Completeness for the purpose0.9For “skin texture and pores” — 93 %; glycolic acid; without a retinoid — it renews the skin deeper than acids; could be added without conflict: glycolic acid, retinoid; below threshold: niacinamide (vitamin b3); a formula with one main purpose
  • Tolerance1.0No ingredients from irritant or allergen lists
  • adults
  • oily skin
  • acne-prone
  • dry skin
  • pregnancysalicylates — ask a doctor
  • atopic skinchildren with atopic skin are sensitised more often
  • sensitive skinpatch test on the inner elbow first
  • rosaceaask a dermatologist
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • fragrance · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “fragrance and its allergens” group — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Bumps and enlarged pores are smoothed by acids (glycolic, lactic, mandelic, PHA, salicylic) — one is enough; niacinamide makes pores less visible, a retinoid renews the skin more deeply. Pores do not “close” — they become less noticeable.
When:
  • leave-on
  • morning
  • evening
morning and evening
When to expect an effect: no visible effect to expect — no data; tone, pores — 4–8 weeks; sebum — 2–4; blackheads, pores — 4–8 weeks; hydration — immediately; lasting effect — 2–4 weeks; redness — days
What is normal: a resinous smell, slight tackiness; mild flushing in the first days at high concentration; mild dryness

Ingredients — 29 components · 5 work

What works: 5 of 29 ingredients: propolis, niacinamide, betaine salicylate and 2 more. Bumps and enlarged pores are smoothed by acids (glycolic, lactic, mandelic, PHA, salicylic) — one is enough; niacinamide makes pores less visible, a retinoid renews the skin more deeply. Pores do not “close” — they become less noticeable.

Strengths: active concentration, completeness for the purpose, tolerance

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: actives with strong evidence: 1 of 5

Questions: no debatable ingredients in the formula

  • Water base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Dipropylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Glycerin base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • Butylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · a humectant and solvent: it makes the texture lighter and helps actives spread. Better tolerated than propylene glycol.
  • Propolis Extract works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: propolis extract
  • Niacinamide works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: niacinamide
  • 1,2-Hexanediol base: coating, fillers · a solvent and humectant with antimicrobial action: it helps the product keep without classic preservatives.
  • Betaine Salicylate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: BHA acid
  • Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate label wording · an allergen (sodium (salt)) — matters when limiting salt, for example with blood pressure; the label says it is absent
  • Tromethamine base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • Xanthan Gum base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Carbomer base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Ethylhexylglycerin base: coating, fillers · a preservative booster and skin-conditioning ingredient: it barely preserves on its own but helps phenoxyethanol work and lowers the amount needed.
  • Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Sodium Hyaluronate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate
  • Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract base: coating, fillers · gives the product its scent
  • Dextrin base: coating, fillers · a starch breakdown product: a filler, thickener and film former; does not act
  • Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract base: coating, fillers · the plant base: emollient oils, waxes and care extracts
  • Corallina Officinalis Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Centella Asiatica Extract works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: Centella extract
  • Methylpropanediol base: coating, fillers · dissolves the other ingredients and holds the formula together
  • Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Pentylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Octanediol base: coating, fillers · keeps the film from cracking
  • Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil base: coating, fillers · the plant base: emollient oils, waxes and care extracts
  • Tocopherol base: coating, fillers · vitamin E at hundredths of a percent: keeps the oils of the formula (a cream or a capsule fill) from going rancid; at that share it protects the product, it is not vitamin E as an active

Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide is a product whose active ingredient is propolis + niacinamide (vitamin b3) + betaine salicylate (bha) + hyaluronic acid. The concentration is not declared, but the active sits above the 1 % line in the list — a working share is likely. There is little evidence of effect: propolis, madecassoside (centella). The effect is supported by studies: niacinamide (vitamin b3). The effect is moderately supported: betaine salicylate (bha), hyaluronic acid. The formula has 29 ingredients, 5 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Bumps and enlarged pores are smoothed by acids (glycolic, lactic, mandelic, PHA, salicylic) — one is enough; niacinamide makes pores less visible, a retinoid renews the skin more deeply. Pores do not “close” — they become less noticeable. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), fragrance, parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, oily skin, acne-prone, dry skin. pregnancy, atopic skin, sensitive skin, rosacea — ask a doctor. fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: morning and evening. When to expect an effect: no visible effect to expect — no data. Label score — 8.8 out of 10 (actives with strong evidence: 1 of 5; actives sit above the 1 % line — by list order a working concentration is 90 % likely; for “skin texture and pores” — 93 %; glycolic acid; without a retinoid — it renews the skin deeper than acids; could be added without conflict: glycolic acid, retinoid; below threshold: niacinamide (vitamin b3); a formula with one main purpose). Propolis is a bee product: if you react to bee products, the brand advises a patch test first.

Who it does not suit

  • fragrance allergycross-reacts with balsam of Peru

When to stop: itching, redness, rash — stop, that is contact allergy; persistent burning — stop; burning — stop; tightness in dry air — apply under a cream

Per the maker's leaflet: Propolis is a bee product: if you react to bee products, the brand advises a patch test first.

Is this product right for your skin?

The score describes the formula, not your skin: the same product dries one person and saves another. Describe your skin type, reactions and goals, attach a photo of the ingredient list or the product — we will go through every ingredient and say whether it suits you, what to pair it with and what to avoid.

Cosmetic ingredient checkDecode my tests

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