Formula · 4.7

Brand · 3.8

Estel Professional · hydrolysed keratin + panthenol + biotin · Russia

Estel Curex Classic daily shampoo “Moisture and nutrition”

Estel Curex Classic daily shampoo “Moisture and nutrition”
4.7

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.4No proven effect when applied: biotin (vitamin b7)
  • Completeness for the purpose1.0For “dry and damaged hair” — 100 %; a broad formula across 4 purposes
  • Cleansing base0.7Harsh surfactants: sodium laureth sulfate (SLES); mild surfactants: cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside, mild surfactants and emulsifiers; irritation potential of the base — 35 % of SLS
  • Tolerance0.2Rinse-off product; debatable groups: cocamide DEA, isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI) (skin test positive in 6 of 100 tested), isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI), fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)
  • adults
  • children
  • pregnancyallowed per the leaflet
  • colour-treated hair
  • babies
  • sensitive skinirritation possible
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
  • acne-pronemay clog pores in leave-on face products
  • dry scalpmay dry
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Damaged hair is helped on two fronts: oils that penetrate the shaft (only coconut oil is proven) and a film on the outside — silicones, panthenol, hydrolysed proteins. One from each front is enough; “collagen” and “biotin” in a shampoo work only on the label.
When:
  • when washing, rinsed off
in a mask or conditioner after washing, along the length
When to expect an effect: smoothness — right after use, until the next wash; soothing — days; barrier — 2–4 weeks; no effect on growth or shedding should be expected
What is normal: with frequent use the hair may feel stiffer

Ingredients — 35 components · 3 work

What works: 3 of 35 ingredients: hydrolysed keratin, panthenol, biotin. Damaged hair is helped on two fronts: oils that penetrate the shaft (only coconut oil is proven) and a film on the outside — silicones, panthenol, hydrolysed proteins. One from each front is enough; “collagen” and “biotin” in a shampoo work only on the label.

Strengths: completeness for the purpose

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: no proven effect when applied: biotin; cleansing base: harsh surfactants: sodium laureth sulfate; tolerance: rinse-off product

Questions: sodium laureth sulfate (SLES): sodium laureth sulfate — the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products; cocamide DEA — a thickener and foam booster. It is restricted: in the presence of nitrites diethanolamides can form nitrosamines, so the regulator caps secondary amines and forbids nitrosating additives; California lists it under Proposition 65.; fragrance and its allergens: fragrance, limonene, butylphenyl methylpropional (lilial), hexyl cinnamal, linalool, citronellol; isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI): methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone

  • Aqua base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate questions · the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products
  • Cocamide DEA questions · a thickener and foam booster. It is restricted: in the presence of nitrites diethanolamides can form nitrosamines, so the regulator caps secondary amines and forbids nitrosating additives; California lists it under Proposition 65.
  • Glycol Distearate base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Laureth-4 base: coating, fillers · an ethoxylated emulsifier; may clog pores in leave-on face products; a finished product with it is not always comedogenic
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine base: coating, fillers · a mild amphoteric surfactant: it builds dense foam and softens the harsh sulfates next to it. It occasionally causes contact allergy, and the culprit is a manufacturing impurity rather than the ingredient itself.
  • Decyl Glucoside base: coating, fillers · one of the gentlest cleansing ingredients: a sugar surfactant that barely disturbs the skin barrier.
  • Sodium Chloride base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Hydrolyzed Keratin works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: keratin hydrolysate
  • Betaine base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • PEG-35 Castor Oil base: coating, fillers · a thick oil, gives lipsticks gloss and balms body; the hydrogenated form is also 1 of 5; does not clog pores
  • Polysorbate 20 base: coating, fillers · cleanse and bind water with oils; milder than the sulfate ones
  • Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Retinyl Palmitate base: coating, fillers · softens the skin and helps it hold water — the most common role in creams
  • Tocopherol base: coating, fillers · vitamin E at hundredths of a percent: keeps the oils of the formula (a cream or a capsule fill) from going rancid; at that share it protects the product, it is not vitamin E as an active
  • Inositol base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Calcium Pantothenate base: coating, fillers · makes hair softer and easier to comb
  • Linoleic Acid base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • Biotin works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: biotin
  • Glycerin base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • Propylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Sorbitol base: coating, fillers · a sugar alcohol: a humectant in cosmetics, a sweetener and filler in supplements. In large amounts by mouth it can loosen the stool.
  • Panthenol works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: panthenol
  • Carboxymethyl Chitin base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Sodium Hyaluronate label wording · an allergen (sodium (salt)) — matters when limiting salt, for example with blood pressure; the label says it is absent
  • Parfum questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Limonene questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Butylphenyl Methylpropional questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Hexyl Cinnamal questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Linalool questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Citronellol questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Polyquaternium-10 base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Citric Acid base: coating, fillers · acidity regulator
  • Lecithin base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • Methylchloroisothiazolinone questions · preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • Methylisothiazolinone questions · preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy

Estel Curex Classic daily shampoo “Moisture and nutrition” is a product whose active ingredient is hydrolysed keratin + panthenol (pro-vitamin b5) + biotin (vitamin b7). The concentration is not declared, but the active sits above the 1 % line in the list — a working share is likely. There is little evidence of effect: hydrolysed keratin. The effect is moderately supported: panthenol (pro-vitamin b5). There is no evidence of effect: biotin (vitamin b7). The formula has 35 ingredients, 3 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Sodium Laureth Sulfate (the main cleansing surfactant; can dry a sensitive scalp — the reason people look for «sulfate-free»; unrestricted in rinse-off products); Cocamide DEA (a thickener and foam booster. It is restricted: in the presence of nitrites diethanolamides can form nitrosamines, so the regulator caps secondary amines and forbids nitrosating additives; California lists it under Proposition 65.); Parfum, Limonene, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool, Citronellol; Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone. Damaged hair is helped on two fronts: oils that penetrate the shaft (only coconut oil is proven) and a film on the outside — silicones, panthenol, hydrolysed proteins. One from each front is enough; “collagen” and “biotin” in a shampoo work only on the label. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), formaldehyde releasers, parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, children, pregnancy, colour-treated hair, babies. sensitive skin, atopic skin, acne-prone, dry scalp — ask a doctor. prone to contact allergy, fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: in a mask or conditioner after washing, along the length. When to expect an effect: smoothness — right after use, until the next wash. Label score — 4.7 out of 10 (no proven effect when applied: biotin (vitamin b7); harsh surfactants: sodium laureth sulfate (sles); mild surfactants: cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside, mild surfactants and emulsifiers; irritation potential of the base — 35 % of sls; rinse-off product; debatable groups: cocamide dea, isothiazolinone preservatives (mit/mci) (skin test positive in 6 of 100 tested), isothiazolinone preservatives (mit/mci), fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)). Per the pack: avoid contact with eyes; rinse thoroughly with water on contact. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Who it does not suit

  • prone to contact allergyone of the most frequent cosmetic allergens
  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

Per the maker's leaflet: Per the pack: avoid contact with eyes; rinse thoroughly with water on contact. A restatement of the label, not an assessment.

Is this product right for your hair?

The score describes the formula, not your hair: a sulfate shampoo suits an oily scalp and fails a dry, sensitive one. Tell us about your hair, scalp and the problem — shedding, dandruff, oiliness, dryness — and we will build a routine and say whether this product suits you.

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