Formula · 5.3

Brand · 5.3

Icon Skin · niacinamide 12% and zinc 1% · Russia

Icon Skin Rest Your Sebum serum concentrate for oily skin

Icon Skin Rest Your Sebum serum concentrate for oily skin
5.3

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.7Actives with strong evidence: 1 of 4
  • Active concentration1.0Declared concentration of niacinamide (vitamin b3), zinc pca; the rest — by position in the list
  • Completeness for the purpose0.5For “acne and blackheads” — 50 %; without a BHA (salicylic acid) that clears pores from inside; without a retinoid — the main tool against new plugs; without benzoyl peroxide — the best-proven agent against acne bacteria; could be added without conflict: retinoid, benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid (bha); a broad formula across 5 purposes
  • Tolerance0.2Debatable ingredient groups: fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested); above the tolerance threshold: Niacinamide (vitamin B3) — irritation more likely
  • adults
  • pregnancyallowed per the leaflet
  • oily skin
  • acne-prone
  • dry skin
  • sensitive skinat 10 % flushing is possible
  • rosaceaask a dermatologist
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Acne products work on four fronts: dissolve plugs (acids), calm inflammation (azelaic acid, niacinamide, zinc), kill bacteria (benzoyl peroxide, tea tree) and prevent new plugs (a retinoid). One active per front is enough; two or three different fronts work noticeably better.
When:
  • leave-on
  • morning
  • evening
morning and evening, on clean skin
When to expect an effect: tone, pores — 4–8 weeks; sebum — 2–4; sebum, shine — 2–4 weeks; redness, itching — 1–2 weeks; spots — 8–12 weeks, if at all; hydration — immediately; lasting effect — 2–4 weeks
What is normal: mild flushing in the first days at high concentration; mild dryness; nothing special — well tolerated

Ingredients — 21 component · 4 work

What works: 4 of 21 ingredients: niacinamide, zinc pca, licorice extract and 1 more. Acne products work on four fronts: dissolve plugs (acids), calm inflammation (azelaic acid, niacinamide, zinc), kill bacteria (benzoyl peroxide, tea tree) and prevent new plugs (a retinoid). One active per front is enough; two or three different fronts work noticeably better.

Strengths: active concentration

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: actives with strong evidence: 1 of 4; completeness for the purpose: for “acne and blackheads” — 50 %; tolerance: debatable ingredient groups: fragrance and its allergens

Questions: fragrance and its allergens: fragrance, hexyl cinnamal, linalool — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

  • Niacinamide (vitamin B3) + Zinc PCA — reinforce each otherboth reduce sebum and inflammation — a classic pair for oily skin
  • Aqua base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Niacinamide works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: niacinamide
  • Isononyl Isononanoate base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Pentylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Isopentyldiol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • C12-13 Pareth-9 base: coating, fillers · keeps the water and oil parts from separating
  • Zinc PCA works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: zinc PCA
  • Hydroxyethyl Urea base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: dipotassium glycyrrhizate
  • Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate base: coating, fillers · skin-microbiome ferments, prebiotics and formula antioxidants
  • Taraxacum Officinale (Dandelion) Leaf Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Sodium Hyaluronate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium hyaluronate
  • Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Xanthan Gum base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Butylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · a humectant and solvent: it makes the texture lighter and helps actives spread. Better tolerated than propylene glycol.
  • 1,2-Hexanediol base: coating, fillers · a solvent and humectant with antimicrobial action: it helps the product keep without classic preservatives.
  • Ethylhexylglycerin base: coating, fillers · a preservative booster and skin-conditioning ingredient: it barely preserves on its own but helps phenoxyethanol work and lowers the amount needed.
  • Phenoxyethanol base: coating, fillers · the most widespread cosmetic preservative: it keeps the product sterile. Permitted in the EU up to 1 %, recognised as safe at that level.
  • Parfum questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Disodium EDTA base: coating, fillers · bind hard-water metals so the formula stays stable and the foam works
  • Hexyl Cinnamal questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Linalool questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

Icon Skin Rest Your Sebum serum concentrate for oily skin is a product whose active ingredient is niacinamide (vitamin b3) + zinc pca + licorice extract + hyaluronic acid at a declared 12 %. The effect is supported by studies: niacinamide (vitamin b3). The effect is moderately supported: zinc pca, hyaluronic acid. There is little evidence of effect: licorice extract. The formula has 21 ingredients, 4 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Parfum, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool (the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works). Well-matched pairs in the formula: niacinamide (vitamin b3) + zinc pca. Acne products work on four fronts: dissolve plugs (acids), calm inflammation (azelaic acid, niacinamide, zinc), kill bacteria (benzoyl peroxide, tea tree) and prevent new plugs (a retinoid). One active per front is enough; two or three different fronts work noticeably better. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, pregnancy, oily skin, acne-prone, dry skin. sensitive skin, rosacea, atopic skin — ask a doctor. fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: morning and evening, on clean skin. When to expect an effect: tone, pores — 4–8 weeks; sebum — 2–4. Label score — 5.3 out of 10 (actives with strong evidence: 1 of 4; for “acne and blackheads” — 50 %; without a bha (salicylic acid) that clears pores from inside; without a retinoid — the main tool against new plugs; without benzoyl peroxide — the best-proven agent against acne bacteria; could be added without conflict: retinoid, benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid (bha); a broad formula across 5 purposes; debatable ingredient groups: fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested); above the tolerance threshold: niacinamide (vitamin b3) — irritation more likely). 12% niacinamide is well above the share it was studied at (2–5%): sensitive skin may flush or redden. The fragrance includes hexyl cinnamal and linalool.

Who it does not suit

  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

When to stop: persistent burning — stop; tightness, flaking — use less often or stop; itching, rash — stop; tightness in dry air — apply under a cream

Per the maker's leaflet: 12% niacinamide is well above the share it was studied at (2–5%): sensitive skin may flush or redden. The fragrance includes hexyl cinnamal and linalool.

Is this product right for your skin?

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Cosmetic ingredient checkDecode my tests

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