Formula · 6.8

Brand · 6.6

Bioderma · cream for dry skin · France

Bioderma Atoderm Crème Ultra

Bioderma Atoderm Crème Ultra
6.8

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.6Actives with strong evidence: 1 of 2
  • Active concentration0.3After the 1 % line: niacinamide (vitamin b3) — the concentration is likely token
  • Completeness for the purpose0.9For “dryness and a damaged barrier” — 92 %; a formula with one main purpose
  • Tolerance1.0No ingredients from irritant or allergen lists
  • adults
  • pregnancyallowed per the leaflet
  • oily skin
  • acne-prone
  • dry skin
  • sensitive skinat 10 % flushing is possible
  • rosaceaask a dermatologist
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • fragrance · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “fragrance and its allergens” group — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Dry skin needs three things at once: draw water in (glycerin, hyaluronate), rebuild the barrier (ceramides with cholesterol, panthenol) and seal moisture with a film (petrolatum, oils). One of the three is half the job.
When:
  • leave-on
  • morning
  • evening
morning and evening, on clean skin
When to expect an effect: tone, pores — 4–8 weeks; sebum — 2–4; gives no visible effect alone — protects the formula's oils
What is normal: mild flushing in the first days at high concentration

Ingredients — 23 components · 2 work

What works: 2 of 23 ingredients: niacinamide, vitamin e. Dry skin needs three things at once: draw water in (glycerin, hyaluronate), rebuild the barrier (ceramides with cholesterol, panthenol) and seal moisture with a film (petrolatum, oils). One of the three is half the job.

Strengths: completeness for the purpose, tolerance

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: actives with strong evidence: 1 of 2; active concentration: after the 1 % line: niacinamide — the concentration is likely token

Questions: no debatable ingredients in the formula

  • Aqua/Water/Eau base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Paraffinum Liquidum/Mineral Oil base: coating, fillers · purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • Glycerin base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil base: coating, fillers · the plant base: emollient oils, waxes and care extracts
  • Sodium Polyacrylate label wording · an allergen (sodium (salt)) — matters when limiting salt, for example with blood pressure; the label says it is absent
  • Pentylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Cetearyl Alcohol base: coating, fillers · a fatty-alcohol blend (C16–C18), an emulsifier and thickener, does not dry the skin; paired with ceteareth-20 — 4 of 5; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • 1,2-Hexanediol base: coating, fillers · a solvent and humectant with antimicrobial action: it helps the product keep without classic preservatives.
  • Caprylyl Glycol base: coating, fillers · a humectant that also holds bacteria back, which is why it often replaces part of the preservative.
  • Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Sodium Citrate base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Xylitol base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Cetearyl Glucoside base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Mannitol base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Tocopherol works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: tocopherol (in cosmetics)
  • Rhamnose base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Xylitylglucoside base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil base: coating, fillers · a light emollient oil rich in linoleic acid (in tablets — a coating component); does not clog pores
  • Anhydroxylitol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Niacinamide works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: niacinamide
  • Glucose base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Fructooligosaccharides base: coating, fillers · plant sugars: they hold water and feed skin bacteria; in a product this is the humectant part of the base
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride base: coating, fillers · a coconut-oil fraction, a light emollient and carrier of actives; does not clog pores
  • Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant

Bioderma Atoderm Crème Ultra is a product whose active ingredient is niacinamide (vitamin b3) + vitamin e. The concentration is not declared and the active sits after the 1 % line — more for the label than for the effect. The effect is supported by studies: niacinamide (vitamin b3). There is little evidence of effect: vitamin e. The formula has 23 ingredients, 2 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Dry skin needs three things at once: draw water in (glycerin, hyaluronate), rebuild the barrier (ceramides with cholesterol, panthenol) and seal moisture with a film (petrolatum, oils). One of the three is half the job. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), fragrance, parabens, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, pregnancy, oily skin, acne-prone, dry skin. sensitive skin, rosacea — ask a doctor. Use: morning and evening, on clean skin. When to expect an effect: tone, pores — 4–8 weeks; sebum — 2–4. Label score — 6.8 out of 10 (actives with strong evidence: 1 of 2; after the 1 % line: niacinamide (vitamin b3) — the concentration is likely token; for “dryness and a damaged barrier” — 92 %; a formula with one main purpose).

Who it does not suit

When to stop: persistent burning — stop; rarely — contact allergy: rash, itching — stop

Is this product right for your skin?

The score describes the formula, not your skin: the same product dries one person and saves another. Describe your skin type, reactions and goals, attach a photo of the ingredient list or the product — we will go through every ingredient and say whether it suits you, what to pair it with and what to avoid.

Cosmetic ingredient checkDecode my tests

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