Formula · 7.8

Brand · 7.5

Чёрный жемчуг · day cream for dark spots, SPF 50 · Russia

Black Pearl PIGMENT EXPERT Day Cream SPF 50

Black Pearl PIGMENT EXPERT Day Cream SPF 50
7.8

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.6Actives with strong evidence: 1 of 6
  • Active concentration0.9After the 1 % line: arbutin, shea butter — the concentration is likely token
  • Completeness for the purpose0.8For “dark spots and uneven tone” — 83 %; glycolic acid; below threshold: niacinamide (vitamin b3), retinoid; a broad formula across 8 purposes
  • Tolerance0.9Debatable ingredient groups: fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)
  • adults
  • oily skin
  • children
  • dry skin
  • babies
  • acne-pronemay clog pores
  • sensitive skinat 10 % flushing is possible
  • rosaceaask a dermatologist
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
  • breastfeedingask a doctor
  • before sunSPF is a must in the daytime
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Against dark spots you need two fronts: actives that slow pigment production (azelaic and tranexamic acids, niacinamide, vitamin C, arbutin, thiamidol) and those that speed up skin renewal (a retinoid, acids). One active per front is enough; better both fronts and SPF in the daytime.
When:
  • leave-on
  • morning
  • evening
morning and evening, on clean skin
When to expect an effect: tone, pores — 4–8 weeks; sebum — 2–4; spots — 8–12 weeks; soothing and less tightness — within days; dryness — immediately; barrier — 2–4 weeks; wrinkles, tone — 8–12 weeks; acne — 6–8; gives no visible effect alone — protects the formula's oils
What is normal: mild flushing in the first days at high concentration; flaking, dryness, mild redness for 2–4 weeks (retinisation)

Ingredients — 38 components · 6 work

What works: 6 of 38 ingredients: niacinamide, arbutin, allantoin and 3 more. Against dark spots you need two fronts: actives that slow pigment production (azelaic and tranexamic acids, niacinamide, vitamin C, arbutin, thiamidol) and those that speed up skin renewal (a retinoid, acids). One active per front is enough; better both fronts and SPF in the daytime.

Strengths: active concentration, tolerance

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: actives with strong evidence: 1 of 6; completeness for the purpose: for “dark spots and uneven tone” — 83 %

Questions: fragrance and its allergens: fragrance — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

  • Retinoid + Niacinamide (vitamin B3) — reinforce each otherniacinamide strengthens the barrier and reduces retinoid irritation
  • Aqua base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate base: coating, fillers · absorbs or reflects ultraviolet light to protect the skin
  • Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate base: coating, fillers · absorbs or reflects ultraviolet light to protect the skin
  • Ethylhexyl Salicylate base: coating, fillers · absorbs or reflects ultraviolet light to protect the skin
  • C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate base: coating, fillers · holds back the growth of bacteria and fungi
  • Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine base: coating, fillers · absorbs or reflects ultraviolet light to protect the skin
  • Niacinamide works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: niacinamide
  • Propylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Glyceryl Stearate base: coating, fillers · the basic cream emulsifier (neutral NSE form); the self-emulsifying SE form with added potassium stearate is a separate entry, 3 of 5; does not clog pores
  • C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate base: coating, fillers · keeps the water and oil parts from separating
  • C20-22 Alcohols base: coating, fillers · makes the product thicker or thinner
  • Allantoin works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: allantoin
  • Alpha-Arbutin works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: alpha-arbutin
  • Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: butter
  • Glycine base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Polymethylsilsesquioxane base: coating, fillers · removes transparency, making the product white or cloudy
  • Retinyl Palmitate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: retinyl palmitate
  • Tocopheryl Acetate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: tocopheryl acetate (ester; in cosmetics)
  • Alanine base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate base: coating, fillers · an ingredient from the European cosmetic ingredient inventory; what exactly it does in this product is not described here yet
  • Butylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · a humectant and solvent: it makes the texture lighter and helps actives spread. Better tolerated than propylene glycol.
  • Cholesterol base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Dipropylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Dimethicone base: coating, fillers · form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer base: coating, fillers · form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • Glycerin base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • Hydrogenated Lecithin base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Hydroxyacetophenone base: coating, fillers · protect the product from bacteria and mould; used within the EU-permitted concentrations
  • 1,2-Hexanediol base: coating, fillers · a solvent and humectant with antimicrobial action: it helps the product keep without classic preservatives.
  • Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Isohexadecane base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Maltitol base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Parfum questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil base: coating, fillers · coating glazing agent
  • Phenoxyethanol base: coating, fillers · the most widespread cosmetic preservative: it keeps the product sterile. Permitted in the EU up to 1 %, recognised as safe at that level.
  • Polysorbate 60 base: coating, fillers · cleanse and bind water with oils; milder than the sulfate ones
  • Serine base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Triethanolamine base: coating, fillers · a pH adjuster and thickener neutraliser; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • Xanthan Gum base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate

Black Pearl PIGMENT EXPERT Day Cream SPF 50 is a product whose active ingredient is niacinamide (vitamin b3) + arbutin + allantoin + shea butter. The concentration is not declared, but the active sits above the 1 % line in the list — a working share is likely. The effect is supported by studies: niacinamide (vitamin b3). The effect is moderately supported: arbutin, allantoin. There is little evidence of effect: shea butter, retinoid, vitamin e. The formula has 38 ingredients, 6 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Parfum (the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works). Well-matched pairs in the formula: retinoid + niacinamide (vitamin b3). Against dark spots you need two fronts: actives that slow pigment production (azelaic and tranexamic acids, niacinamide, vitamin C, arbutin, thiamidol) and those that speed up skin renewal (a retinoid, acids). One active per front is enough; better both fronts and SPF in the daytime. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, oily skin, children, dry skin, babies. acne-prone, sensitive skin, rosacea, atopic skin, breastfeeding, before sun — ask a doctor. pregnancy, fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: morning and evening, on clean skin. When to expect an effect: tone, pores — 4–8 weeks; sebum — 2–4. Label score — 7.8 out of 10 (actives with strong evidence: 1 of 6; after the 1 % line: arbutin, shea butter — the concentration is likely token; for “dark spots and uneven tone” — 83 %; glycolic acid; below threshold: niacinamide (vitamin b3), retinoid; a broad formula across 8 purposes; debatable ingredient groups: fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)). Retinoids are not used during pregnancy. The sunscreen layer needs renewing every two hours in the sun.

Who it does not suit

  • pregnancydo not use
  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

When to stop: persistent burning — stop; strong burning, swelling — stop; rarely — contact allergy: rash, itching — stop

Per the maker's leaflet: Retinoids are not used during pregnancy. The sunscreen layer needs renewing every two hours in the sun.

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