Formula · 8.1

Brand · 7.5

Чёрный жемчуг · night cream-mask for dark spots · Russia

Black Pearl PIGMENT EXPERT Night Cream-Mask

Black Pearl PIGMENT EXPERT Night Cream-Mask
8.1

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.6Actives with strong evidence: 1 of 7
  • Active concentration1.0Actives sit above the 1 % line — by list order a working concentration is 96 % likely
  • Completeness for the purpose0.9For “dark spots and uneven tone” — 94 %; glycolic acid; below threshold: niacinamide (vitamin b3); a broad formula across 3 purposes
  • Tolerance0.9Debatable ingredient groups: parabens (skin test positive in 1 of 100 tested), fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)
  • adults
  • children
  • dry skin
  • oily skin
  • babies
  • colour-treated hair
  • sensitive skinat 10 % flushing is possible
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
  • acne-pronemay clog pores
  • rosaceaask a dermatologist
  • breastfeedingask a doctor
  • before sunSPF is a must in the daytime
  • tree nut allergya nut oil — best avoided with a severe tree nut allergy
  • nut allergywith a almond allergy — ask a doctor
  • prone to contact allergya rare but known allergen
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Against dark spots you need two fronts: actives that slow pigment production (azelaic and tranexamic acids, niacinamide, vitamin C, arbutin, thiamidol) and those that speed up skin renewal (a retinoid, acids). One active per front is enough; better both fronts and SPF in the daytime.
When:
  • leave-on
  • morning
  • evening
morning and evening, with SPF in the daytime
When to expect an effect: spots — 8–12 weeks; hydration — days; redness, itch — 1–2 weeks; tone, pores — 4–8 weeks; sebum — 2–4; wrinkles, tone — 8–12 weeks; acne — 6–8; dryness — immediately; barrier — 2–4 weeks; smoothness and shine — right away, until the next wash; softness — days; scars, spots — no reliable timeline
What is normal: nothing special — well tolerated; mild flushing in the first days at high concentration; flaking, dryness, mild redness for 2–4 weeks (retinisation); an oily film for the first minutes

Ingredients — 42 components · 7 work

What works: 7 of 42 ingredients: arbutin, ectoin, niacinamide and 4 more. Against dark spots you need two fronts: actives that slow pigment production (azelaic and tranexamic acids, niacinamide, vitamin C, arbutin, thiamidol) and those that speed up skin renewal (a retinoid, acids). One active per front is enough; better both fronts and SPF in the daytime.

Strengths: active concentration, completeness for the purpose, tolerance

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: actives with strong evidence: 1 of 7

Questions: parabens: ethylparaben, methylparaben — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm; fragrance and its allergens: fragrance — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

  • Retinoid + Niacinamide (vitamin B3) — reinforce each otherniacinamide strengthens the barrier and reduces retinoid irritation
  • Aqua base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Dimethicone base: coating, fillers · form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • Coco Caprylate/Caprate base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • Glyceryl Stearate base: coating, fillers · the basic cream emulsifier (neutral NSE form); the self-emulsifying SE form with added potassium stearate is a separate entry, 3 of 5; does not clog pores
  • Glyceryl Stearate Citrate base: coating, fillers · the basic cream emulsifier (neutral NSE form); the self-emulsifying SE form with added potassium stearate is a separate entry, 3 of 5; does not clog pores
  • Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride base: coating, fillers · a coconut-oil fraction, a light emollient and carrier of actives; does not clog pores
  • Isononyl Isononanoate base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: macadamia seed oil
  • Propylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Cetearyl Alcohol base: coating, fillers · a fatty-alcohol blend (C16–C18), an emulsifier and thickener, does not dry the skin; paired with ceteareth-20 — 4 of 5; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • Alpha-Arbutin works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: alpha-arbutin
  • Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: butter
  • Ectoin works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: ectoin
  • Hydroxyethyl Urea base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Niacinamide works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: niacinamide
  • Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil base: coating, fillers · a light nourishing oil; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • Prunus Persica (Peach) Kernel Oil base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil base: coating, fillers · a light emollient oil; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • Rosa Canina Seed Oil works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: rosehip oil
  • Retinyl Palmitate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: retinyl palmitate
  • Tocopheryl Acetate base: coating, fillers · vitamin E at hundredths of a percent: keeps the oils of the formula (a cream or a capsule fill) from going rancid; at that share it protects the product, it is not vitamin E as an active
  • Alanine base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Ammonium Lactate base: coating, fillers · dissolves the bonds between dead flakes so they can come off
  • Butylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · a humectant and solvent: it makes the texture lighter and helps actives spread. Better tolerated than propylene glycol.
  • Dipropylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Ethylparaben questions · preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • Cholesterol base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Glycine base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Glycerin base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • Hydrogenated Lecithin base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Isohexadecane base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Maltitol base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Methylparaben questions · preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • Parfum questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil base: coating, fillers · coating glazing agent
  • Phenoxyethanol base: coating, fillers · the most widespread cosmetic preservative: it keeps the product sterile. Permitted in the EU up to 1 %, recognised as safe at that level.
  • Potassium Cetyl Phosphate base: coating, fillers · an anionic emulsifier: keeps oil and water together in light creams and sunscreens; a few percent of the product, no action on the skin
  • Polysorbate 60 base: coating, fillers · cleanse and bind water with oils; milder than the sulfate ones
  • Serine base: coating, fillers · amino acids, lipids and sugars akin to the skin’s own components — support for its barrier
  • Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate label wording · an allergen (sodium (salt)) — matters when limiting salt, for example with blood pressure; the label says it is absent
  • Xanthan Gum base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate

Black Pearl PIGMENT EXPERT Night Cream-Mask is a product whose active ingredient is arbutin + ectoin + niacinamide (vitamin b3) + retinoid. The concentration is not declared, but the active sits above the 1 % line in the list — a working share is likely. The effect is moderately supported: arbutin, ectoin. The effect is supported by studies: niacinamide (vitamin b3). There is little evidence of effect: retinoid, shea butter, macadamia oil, rosehip oil. The formula has 42 ingredients, 7 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Ethylparaben, Methylparaben (preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm); Parfum (the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works). Well-matched pairs in the formula: retinoid + niacinamide (vitamin b3). Against dark spots you need two fronts: actives that slow pigment production (azelaic and tranexamic acids, niacinamide, vitamin C, arbutin, thiamidol) and those that speed up skin renewal (a retinoid, acids). One active per front is enough; better both fronts and SPF in the daytime. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, children, dry skin, oily skin, babies, colour-treated hair. sensitive skin, atopic skin, acne-prone, rosacea, breastfeeding, before sun, tree nut allergy, nut allergy, prone to contact allergy — ask a doctor. pregnancy, fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: morning and evening, with SPF in the daytime. When to expect an effect: spots — 8–12 weeks. Label score — 8.1 out of 10 (actives with strong evidence: 1 of 7; actives sit above the 1 % line — by list order a working concentration is 96 % likely; for “dark spots and uneven tone” — 94 %; glycolic acid; below threshold: niacinamide (vitamin b3); a broad formula across 3 purposes; debatable ingredient groups: parabens (skin test positive in 1 of 100 tested), fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)). Retinoids are not used during pregnancy; sun protection is required in the daytime afterwards.

Who it does not suit

  • pregnancydo not use
  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

When to stop: itching, rash — stop; persistent burning — stop; strong burning, swelling — stop; new comedones, itching — stop; a rancid smell — the oil has gone off

Per the maker's leaflet: Retinoids are not used during pregnancy; sun protection is required in the daytime afterwards.

Is this product right for your skin?

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Cosmetic ingredient checkDecode my tests

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