Formula · 7.2

Brand · 6.7

ARAVIA Laboratories · cream with retinyl palmitate · Russia

ARAVIA Laboratories Anti-Age Regenetic Cream

ARAVIA Laboratories Anti-Age Regenetic Cream
7.2

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.5Actives with strong evidence: 1 of 5
  • Active concentration0.9After the 1 % line: aloe vera — the concentration is likely token
  • Completeness for the purpose0.8For “wrinkles and firmness” — 82 %; glycolic acid; signal peptides; could be added without conflict: signal peptides; below threshold: retinoid, vitamin e, niacinamide (vitamin b3); a broad formula across 5 purposes
  • Tolerance0.8Debatable ingredient groups: BHT and BHA (antioxidants), parabens (skin test positive in 1 of 100 tested), fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)
  • adults
  • oily skin
  • dry skin
  • children
  • babies
  • breastfeedingask a doctor
  • sensitive skinstart low
  • rosaceaask a dermatologist
  • before sunSPF is a must in the daytime
  • acne-pronemay clog pores
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
  • prone to contact allergya rare but known allergen
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Against wrinkles the proven actives are retinoids (or bakuchiol), vitamin C with antioxidants and acids: they speed up skin renewal and stimulate collagen. Peptides and hydration are an add-on that smooths for a while.
When:
  • leave-on
  • at night
at night; start twice a week, SPF in the daytime
When to expect an effect: wrinkles, tone — 8–12 weeks; acne — 6–8; tone, pores — 4–8 weeks; sebum — 2–4; gives no visible effect alone — protects the formula's oils; dryness — immediately; barrier — 2–4 weeks; hydration — right away; calming of irritation — 1–2 weeks
What is normal: flaking, dryness, mild redness for 2–4 weeks (retinisation); mild flushing in the first days at high concentration

Ingredients — 26 components · 5 work

What works: 5 of 26 ingredients: retinoid, niacinamide, vitamin e and 2 more. Against wrinkles the proven actives are retinoids (or bakuchiol), vitamin C with antioxidants and acids: they speed up skin renewal and stimulate collagen. Peptides and hydration are an add-on that smooths for a while.

Strengths: active concentration

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: actives with strong evidence: 1 of 5; completeness for the purpose: for “wrinkles and firmness” — 82 %; tolerance: debatable ingredient groups: bht and bha, parabens, fragrance and its allergens

Questions: parabens: methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylparaben — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm; BHT and BHA (antioxidants): bht — antioxidants that keep oils from going rancid: hundredths of a percent in cosmetics, and E321 and E320 in supplements. A frequent buyer question, with no proven harm at these levels.; fragrance and its allergens: fragrance, linalool, citronellol

  • Retinoid + Niacinamide (vitamin B3) — reinforce each otherniacinamide strengthens the barrier and reduces retinoid irritation
  • Aqua base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Isononyl Isononanoate base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Potassium Cetyl Phosphate base: coating, fillers · an anionic emulsifier: keeps oil and water together in light creams and sunscreens; a few percent of the product, no action on the skin
  • Cetyl Palmitate base: coating, fillers · a wax ester, a thickener and emollient; does not clog pores
  • Cocos Nucifera Seed Butter works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: butter
  • Glyceryl Stearate base: coating, fillers · the basic cream emulsifier (neutral NSE form); the self-emulsifying SE form with added potassium stearate is a separate entry, 3 of 5; does not clog pores
  • Isopentyldiol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: butter
  • Cyclopentasiloxane base: coating, fillers · form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • Glycerin base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil base: coating, fillers · creates a protective layer between the skin and outside irritants
  • Linseed Oil Ethyl Esters base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Soybean Oil Ethyl Esters base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Niacinamide works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: niacinamide
  • Phenoxyethanol base: coating, fillers · the most widespread cosmetic preservative: it keeps the product sterile. Permitted in the EU up to 1 %, recognised as safe at that level.
  • Tocopheryl Acetate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: tocopheryl acetate (ester; in cosmetics)
  • Methylparaben questions · preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • BHT questions · antioxidants that keep oils from going rancid: hundredths of a percent in cosmetics, and E321 and E320 in supplements. A frequent buyer question, with no proven harm at these levels.
  • Retinyl Palmitate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: retinyl palmitate
  • Parfum questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Propylparaben questions · preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: aloe gel
  • Coffea Arabica (Green) Seed Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract base: coating, fillers · an ingredient from the European cosmetic ingredient inventory; what exactly it does in this product is not described here yet
  • Xanthan Gum base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Ethylparaben questions · preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • Linalool questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Citronellol questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

ARAVIA Laboratories Anti-Age Regenetic Cream is a product whose active ingredient is retinoid + niacinamide (vitamin b3) + vitamin e + shea butter. The concentration is not declared; the active sits after the 1 % line, but works at small shares. There is little evidence of effect: retinoid, vitamin e, shea butter, aloe vera. The effect is supported by studies: niacinamide (vitamin b3). The formula has 26 ingredients, 5 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben (preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm); BHT (antioxidants that keep oils from going rancid: hundredths of a percent in cosmetics, and E321 and E320 in supplements. A frequent buyer question, with no proven harm at these levels.); Parfum, Linalool, Citronellol. Well-matched pairs in the formula: retinoid + niacinamide (vitamin b3). Against wrinkles the proven actives are retinoids (or bakuchiol), vitamin C with antioxidants and acids: they speed up skin renewal and stimulate collagen. Peptides and hydration are an add-on that smooths for a while. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, oily skin, dry skin, children, babies. breastfeeding, sensitive skin, rosacea, before sun, acne-prone, atopic skin, prone to contact allergy — ask a doctor. pregnancy, fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: at night; start twice a week, SPF in the daytime. When to expect an effect: wrinkles, tone — 8–12 weeks; acne — 6–8. Label score — 7.2 out of 10 (actives with strong evidence: 1 of 5; after the 1 % line: aloe vera — the concentration is likely token; for “wrinkles and firmness” — 82 %; glycolic acid; signal peptides; could be added without conflict: signal peptides; below threshold: retinoid, vitamin e, niacinamide (vitamin b3); a broad formula across 5 purposes; debatable ingredient groups: bht and bha (antioxidants), parabens (skin test positive in 1 of 100 tested), fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)). Retinoids are not used during pregnancy; sun protection is required in the daytime afterwards.

Who it does not suit

  • pregnancydo not use
  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

When to stop: strong burning, swelling — stop; persistent burning — stop; rarely — contact allergy: rash, itching — stop

Per the maker's leaflet: Retinoids are not used during pregnancy; sun protection is required in the daytime afterwards.

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