Formula · 9.5

Brand · 6.6

Bioderma · glycolic acid 15% · France

Bioderma Sébium Night Peel

Bioderma Sébium Night Peel
9.5

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.9Actives with strong evidence: 1 of 2
  • Active concentration1.0After the 1 % line: panthenol (pro-vitamin b5) — the concentration is likely token
  • Completeness for the purpose1.0For “skin texture and pores” — 100 %; without niacinamide, which makes pores less visible; without a retinoid — it renews the skin deeper than acids; could be added without conflict: niacinamide (vitamin b3); a broad formula across 3 purposes
  • Tolerance0.9Debatable ingredient groups: fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)
  • adults
  • pregnancyallowed per the leaflet
  • oily skin
  • babies
  • sensitive skintingling, start 1–2 times a week
  • before sunSPF is a must in the daytime
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Bumps and enlarged pores are smoothed by acids (glycolic, lactic, mandelic, PHA, salicylic) — one is enough; niacinamide makes pores less visible, a retinoid renews the skin more deeply. Pores do not “close” — they become less noticeable.
When:
  • leave-on
  • evening
in the evening, 2–3 times a week; SPF in the daytime
When to expect an effect: texture, glow — 2–4 weeks; soothing — days; barrier — 2–4 weeks
What is normal: tingling for 1–2 minutes after applying

Ingredients — 15 components · 2 work

What works: 2 of 15 ingredients: glycolic acid, panthenol. Bumps and enlarged pores are smoothed by acids (glycolic, lactic, mandelic, PHA, salicylic) — one is enough; niacinamide makes pores less visible, a retinoid renews the skin more deeply. Pores do not “close” — they become less noticeable.

Strengths: actives and evidence, active concentration, completeness for the purpose, tolerance

Questions: fragrance and its allergens: fragrance — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

  • Aqua/Water/Eau base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Glycolic Acid works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: AHA acid
  • Sodium Hydroxide base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Panthenol works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: panthenol
  • Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer base: coating, fillers · makes the product thicker or thinner
  • Dipropylene Glycol base: coating, fillers · humectants and solvents — hold water and help actives dissolve
  • Hydroxyethylcellulose base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Mannitol base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Propyl Gallate base: coating, fillers · skin-microbiome ferments, prebiotics and formula antioxidants
  • Xylitol base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Sodium Metabisulfite label wording · an allergen (sodium (salt)) — matters when limiting salt, for example with blood pressure; the label says it is absent
  • Rhamnose base: coating, fillers · draws water in and holds it in the upper layer of the skin
  • Fructooligosaccharides base: coating, fillers · plant sugars: they hold water and feed skin bacteria; in a product this is the humectant part of the base
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride base: coating, fillers · a coconut-oil fraction, a light emollient and carrier of actives; does not clog pores
  • Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Fragrance (Parfum questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

Bioderma Sébium Night Peel is a product whose active ingredient is glycolic acid + panthenol (pro-vitamin b5) at a declared 15 %. The effect is supported by studies: glycolic acid. The effect is moderately supported: panthenol (pro-vitamin b5). The formula has 15 ingredients, 2 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Fragrance (Parfum (the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works). Bumps and enlarged pores are smoothed by acids (glycolic, lactic, mandelic, PHA, salicylic) — one is enough; niacinamide makes pores less visible, a retinoid renews the skin more deeply. Pores do not “close” — they become less noticeable. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, pregnancy, oily skin, babies. sensitive skin, before sun, atopic skin — ask a doctor. rosacea, eczema, children, fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: in the evening, 2–3 times a week; SPF in the daytime. When to expect an effect: texture, glow — 2–4 weeks. Label score — 9.5 out of 10 (actives with strong evidence: 1 of 2; after the 1 % line: panthenol (pro-vitamin b5) — the concentration is likely token; debatable ingredient groups: fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested)). The acid share is above the 10% that European cosmetic safety experts treat as the ceiling for home products. It is applied at night in a course; sun protection is mandatory during the day. Not for damaged skin or rosacea.

Who it does not suit

  • rosacea, eczemanot on inflamed skin
  • childrenonly if prescribed
  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

When to stop: burning, persistent redness — stop; do not use the same evening as a retinoid

Per the maker's leaflet: The acid share is above the 10% that European cosmetic safety experts treat as the ceiling for home products. It is applied at night in a course; sun protection is mandatory during the day. Not for damaged skin or rosacea.

Is this product right for your skin?

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Cosmetic ingredient checkDecode my tests

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