Formula · 7.2

Brand · 7.2

Ultraceuticals · mask with caffeine and vitamins A and C · Australia

Ultraceuticals Ultra Energising Mask

Ultraceuticals Ultra Energising Mask
7.2

LabReadAI label score

How the score is calculated
  • Actives and evidence0.5Actives with strong evidence: 0 of 5
  • Active concentration0.9After the 1 % line: panthenol (pro-vitamin b5), vitamin c — the concentration is likely token
  • Completeness for the purpose1.0For “puffiness and dark circles” — 100 %; below threshold: retinoid; a broad formula across 4 purposes
  • Tolerance0.6Rinse-off product; debatable groups: benzyl alcohol, menthol, fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested); use together with care: menthol + retinoid, retinoid + vitamin c
  • adults
  • children
  • sensitive skinstart low
  • Asteraceae allergyfrom chamomile
  • babiesnot applied to a baby face or near the nose
  • atopic skinfragrance is a common trigger
  • breastfeedingask a doctor
  • rosaceaask a dermatologist
  • before sunSPF is a must in the daytime
  • acne-pronemay clog pores in leave-on face products
Free from:
  • alcohol (alcohol denat) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “denatured alcohol” group — evaporates fast and degreases; frequent contact can dry the skin — a tolerance question, not a regulatory one; does not clog pores
  • sulfates (SLS/SLES) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), sodium coco-sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium myreth sulfate, TEA-lauryl sulfate” group — a cleansing surfactant from the sulfate family but with an ethoxylated chain: it cleanses more gently than lauryl sulfate. Still not for those looking for a sulfate-free product.
  • formaldehyde releasers · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “formaldehyde releasers” group — preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde; allowed at low levels but a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI) · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “isothiazolinone preservatives (MIT/MCI)” group — preservatives; banned in EU leave-on products and limited in rinse-off (0.0015%) — a frequent cause of contact allergy
  • parabens · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “parabens” group — preservatives; methyl- and ethylparaben are recognised as safe at permitted levels, propyl- and butyl- are limited by the EU to 0.14 %; a frequent buyer question rather than proven harm
  • mineral oils and petrolatum · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “petrolatum and mineral oils” group — purified cosmetic-grade petroleum products: form a protective barrier film; safety is established, a preference question; 0–2 of 5 (depends on the raw-material source), cosmetic white oil per DiNardo (2005) is non-comedogenic
  • soap · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “potassium soap (potassium cocoate), plant soap base (sodium palmate, sodium cocoate), tallow soap base (sodium tallowate)” group — liquid soap: fatty acids boiled with alkali. It cleanses well, but its acidity is around 9-10 against 5 for skin, which is why it often leaves tightness. The product is rinsed off, so the question is tolerance.
  • silicones · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “silicones” group — form a smooth film and shine; inert and not absorbed — a preference question, not a safety one
  • gelatin in the coating · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “vegetarian coating” group — a plant-based tablet coating instead of gelatin; it keeps moisture out and makes swallowing easier
  • toning dyes · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “violet toning dyes” group — direct dyes that settle on the hair surface and cancel the yellow cast of blonde; they wash out in 1–3 washes and leave a lilac tint if left too long; HC Blue 2 and Disperse Violet 1 are known contact allergens of hair dyes
  • tar · by the listthe list has no ingredient of the “wood (birch) tar” group — a traditional remedy for dandruff and itching with a sharp smell; it reduces flaking, but can irritate a sensitive scalp and dries the hair
What for: Under-eye puffiness is briefly reduced by caffeine, which constricts vessels. Cosmetics change dark circles little: hydration and a retinoid slightly thicken the thin skin, but the cause is usually vessels and anatomy.
When:
  • when washing, rinsed off
  • morning
in the morning, under the eyes, patting in
When to expect an effect: puffiness — within an hour, briefly; dark circles — no effect to expect; less redness — after 1–2 weeks; soothing — days; barrier — 2–4 weeks; wrinkles, tone — 8–12 weeks; acne — 6–8; tone, glow — 4–8 weeks
What is normal: flaking, dryness, mild redness for 2–4 weeks (retinisation); stinging at high concentration

Ingredients — 49 components · 5 work

What works: 5 of 49 ingredients: caffeine, bisabolol, panthenol and 2 more. Under-eye puffiness is briefly reduced by caffeine, which constricts vessels. Cosmetics change dark circles little: hydration and a retinoid slightly thicken the thin skin, but the cause is usually vessels and anatomy.

Strengths: active concentration, completeness for the purpose

What lowers the score: actives and evidence: actives with strong evidence: 0 of 5; tolerance: rinse-off product

Questions: menthol — gives a cooling sensation and mild numbing. It irritates sensitive skin and mucous membranes, and it worsens redness in rosacea.; fragrance and its allergens: benzyl benzoate, linalool — the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works; benzyl alcohol

  • menthol + Retinoid — use together with carementhol irritates skin a retinoid has already made more sensitive — burning and redness
  • Retinoid + Vitamin C — use together with careL-ascorbic acid needs a pH below 3.5, a retinoid a neutral one; in one product one of them works worse — better to split: vitamin C in the morning, retinoid at night
  • Water/Aqua/Eau base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Glycerin base: coating, fillers · a humectant: coats the tablet, holds moisture in creams and shampoos; does not clog pores
  • Octyldodecanol base: coating, fillers · a branched fatty-alcohol emollient: softens, gives slip and dissolves oil-soluble components; not “alcohol” in the everyday sense, does not dry the skin
  • Cetyl Alcohol base: coating, fillers · a fatty alcohol, emulsifier and thickener; does not dry the skin — not “alcohol” in the everyday sense; rarely clogs pores
  • Methylpropanediol base: coating, fillers · dissolves the other ingredients and holds the formula together
  • Dicaprylyl Carbonate base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Olive Oil Decyl Esters base: coating, fillers · soften, condition and carry the actives; the backbone of the texture
  • Glyceryl Stearate base: coating, fillers · the basic cream emulsifier (neutral NSE form); the self-emulsifying SE form with added potassium stearate is a separate entry, 3 of 5; does not clog pores
  • Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Caffeine works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: caffeine
  • Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water base: coating, fillers · water — the solvent and base; listed first because there is more of it than anything else; in supplements — part of the capsule shell
  • Oleyl Alcohol base: coating, fillers · an unsaturated fatty alcohol, a liquid emollient; may clog pores in leave-on face products; a finished product with it is not always comedogenic
  • Caprylyl Glycol base: coating, fillers · a humectant that also holds bacteria back, which is why it often replaces part of the preservative.
  • PEG-75 Stearate base: coating, fillers · coating glazing agent
  • Bisabolol works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: alpha-bisabolol
  • Panthenol works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: panthenol
  • Retinyl Palmitate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: retinyl palmitate
  • Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer base: coating, fillers · makes the product thicker or thinner
  • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate works · the active ingredient — what the product is for; form: sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP)
  • Tocopherol base: coating, fillers · vitamin E at hundredths of a percent: keeps the oils of the formula (a cream or a capsule fill) from going rancid; at that share it protects the product, it is not vitamin E as an active
  • Linoleic Acid base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • Ceteth-20 base: coating, fillers · coating glazing agent
  • Steareth-20 base: coating, fillers · an ethoxylated cream emulsifier; rarely clogs pores in leave-on face products
  • Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Sodium PCA base: coating, fillers · a component of the skin own moisturising factor: it draws water into the upper layer.
  • Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Disodium EDTA base: coating, fillers · bind hard-water metals so the formula stays stable and the foam works
  • Xanthan Gum base: coating, fillers · hold the texture: gels, creams and foam do not separate
  • Zanthoxylum Bungeanum Fruit Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Phenylpropanol base: coating, fillers · dissolves the other ingredients and holds the formula together
  • Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil base: coating, fillers · the plant base: emollient oils, waxes and care extracts
  • Squalene base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract base: coating, fillers · plant and algae extracts and floral waters: flavouring and marketing components — at these shares there is no proven effect on the skin; rare reactions in people allergic to that particular plant
  • Linolenic Acid base: coating, fillers · fills the gaps between skin flakes, so the surface feels smooth
  • Cananga Odorata (Ylang Ylang) Flower Oil base: coating, fillers · gives the product its scent
  • Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil base: coating, fillers · gives the product its scent
  • Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil base: coating, fillers · the plant base: emollient oils, waxes and care extracts
  • Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract base: coating, fillers · looks after teeth and gums
  • Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Leaf Oil base: coating, fillers · covers the smell of the other ingredients
  • Menthol questions · gives a cooling sensation and mild numbing. It irritates sensitive skin and mucous membranes, and it worsens redness in rosacea.
  • Sodium Benzoate base: coating, fillers · a preservative both in cosmetics and in supplements: a salt of benzoic acid that works in an acidic medium. Permitted as food additive E211 and in cosmetics up to 0.5 %.
  • Potassium Sorbate base: coating, fillers · a mild preservative against mould and yeast: used both in cosmetics and in foods and supplements (E202).
  • Phenoxyethanol base: coating, fillers · the most widespread cosmetic preservative: it keeps the product sterile. Permitted in the EU up to 1 %, recognised as safe at that level.
  • Benzyl Benzoate questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works
  • Benzoic Acid base: coating, fillers · protect the product from bacteria and mould; used within the EU-permitted concentrations
  • Benzyl Alcohol questions · a preservative and solvent permitted in the EU up to 1 %. It is also on the list of 26 fragrance allergens that must be declared separately, which matters to people allergic to fragrance.
  • Lactic Acid base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Sorbic Acid base: coating, fillers · stops bacteria and mould growing in the jar
  • Sodium Hydroxide base: coating, fillers · tune the acidity and texture; salt is a common shampoo thickener
  • Linalool questions · the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works

Ultraceuticals Ultra Energising Mask is a product whose active ingredient is caffeine + bisabolol + panthenol (pro-vitamin b5) + retinoid. The concentration is not declared, but the active sits above the 1 % line in the list — a working share is likely. There is little evidence of effect: caffeine, retinoid. The effect is moderately supported: bisabolol, panthenol (pro-vitamin b5), vitamin c. The formula has 49 ingredients, 5 of which do the work; the rest is the formula base. Worth noting: Menthol (gives a cooling sensation and mild numbing. It irritates sensitive skin and mucous membranes, and it worsens redness in rosacea.); Benzyl Benzoate, Linalool (the fragrance and its aromatic components; the EU requires 26 of them to be listed separately — matters to people allergic to fragrance, does not affect how the product works); Benzyl Alcohol. Use together with care: menthol + retinoid; retinoid + vitamin c. Under-eye puffiness is briefly reduced by caffeine, which constricts vessels. Cosmetics change dark circles little: hydration and a retinoid slightly thicken the thin skin, but the cause is usually vessels and anatomy. By the list, no alcohol (alcohol denat), sulfates (SLS/SLES), formaldehyde releasers, isothiazolinones (MIT/MCI), parabens, mineral oils and petrolatum, soap, silicones, gelatin in the coating, toning dyes, tar. Suitable for: adults, children. sensitive skin, Asteraceae allergy, babies, atopic skin, breastfeeding, rosacea, before sun, acne-prone — ask a doctor. pregnancy, fragrance allergy — not without a doctor. Use: in the morning, under the eyes, patting in. When to expect an effect: puffiness — within an hour, briefly; dark circles — no effect to expect. Label score — 7.2 out of 10 (actives with strong evidence: 0 of 5; after the 1 % line: panthenol (pro-vitamin b5), vitamin c — the concentration is likely token; rinse-off product; debatable groups: benzyl alcohol, menthol, fragrance and its allergens (skin test positive in 13 of 100 tested); use together with care: menthol + retinoid, retinoid + vitamin c). Retinoids are not used during pregnancy; sun protection is required in the daytime afterwards.

Who it does not suit

  • pregnancydo not use
  • fragrance allergyrisk of reaction

When to stop: strong burning, swelling — stop; persistent redness — stop; a darkened serum has oxidised

Per the maker's leaflet: Retinoids are not used during pregnancy; sun protection is required in the daytime afterwards.

Is this product right for your skin?

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Cosmetic ingredient checkDecode my tests

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